Modern Salon - January 2008 - (Page 72)

your makeovers Dark for a Day From sweet to sophisticated just for one night in Paris? No problem when you wig out. Women today are confident enough to make a dramatic change for just one night. Sharpening your coloring and texturizing skills with wigs meets the demand and adds to your revenue stream. At Jamison Shaw Salon in Atlanta, the wig brochure is a huge dollar-generator. Not just because women are into commitment-free transformations (though they are), but because the team knows how to texturize and color human-hair wigs to create a personalized look that suits any mood or occasion. Human hair or not, wig work is different from the real deal. First of all, color comes first. Cutting the wig later lets you snip away little mistakes. Also, color techniques that would normally be done simultaneously are done in steps. This means precision baliage highlighting should be performed after a new base is shampooed out. “This wig was close to the model’s Level-7½ base; I created a Level-6 red base with caramel accents in front and in the fringe,” explains design team member Candy Shaw-Codner. “Because wigs move too much, it was easier to shampoo out the base and paint on the highlights. If it were scalp hair, I’d have painted the highlights right over the base. In this instance, using a wig let me go on location to Paris and re-create the city’s vibe on a model who didn’t want a dramatic color change.” After coloring, the wig is completely dried and flatironed. It’s dry-cut on the client, like a tailor fits a dress. To get texture that moves, razor shears and a clipper are a must; wigs are very unforgiving about straight edges, and you can’t hide cutting mistakes. For the look shown here, a French cutting technique was employed to create a geometric look with long layers and a disconnected fringe. Both cut and color are tailored to the individual. A final plus? A high-end, customized wig requires salon care, so you can make money during downtime. Handle dropoff and delivery much like dry cleaning—something clients will appreciate. “Wigs are a great tool during a consultation to show clients how a dramatic color change would look,” adds Shaw-Codner. “Women love the one-night wow factor.” (Hair by the Jamison Shaw Design Team, Atlanta. Color by Candy Shaw-Codner, assisted by Kym Moore and Christina Lenyszyn. Photography by Tom Carson; production by Global Hair & Fashion Group; make-up by Betty Mekonnen.) WIGGED-OUT COLOR 1. Apply the demipermanent base shade all over, using an applicator bottle. Process for 25 minutes. 2. Shampoo and condition. 3. Paint on the highlights, using a baliage technique. Use cotton strips to prevent bleed, and place plastic wrap over the top to trap heat. Process for 25 minutes, rinse and shampoo. Then blow dry completely, flatiron and dry-cut the wig. Formulas Used: Base: 1-oz Wella Color Touch 6/0 (dark blonde), 1-oz 6/47 (red fire) with 2-oz 1.9 developer (the equivalent of 3/4 volume). Highlights: Two scoops Sunlight Powder Bleach with 2-oz 40-volume developer. 72 JANUARY 2008 www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - January 2008

Modern Salon - January 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors @Modernsalon.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Color and Texture News and Trends Ask Beth Your Makeovers Ask the Experts The Verdict Doing Hair Transformation on Trend Modern Update The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - January 2008

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