Modern Salon - January 2009 - (Page 54)

PROCESS Q Beth Minardi, co-owner of Minardi Salon in NYC. I have a client with naturally blonde roots and highlighted, pale blonde on the ends. She decided to go dark red. I first filled her hair with Shades EQ 8WG and 9AA and set her under the dryer for 20 minutes. I then rinsed and applied 1-oz 3R, 1/2-oz 5c and 1/2-oz orange kicker, and again placed her under the dryer for 20 minutes. It came out beautiful and fairly even with a couple of lighter pieces in the back. She called a few days later and says she hates it and wants it dark brown. Do I strip out the red with Pravana Color Extractor then apply 3N with 6 GN? If she was indecisive, she should not have started until she made her decision—100 percent. Consultation and commitment from both sides is the first thing colorists must do when conducting a color change. I always tell blondes who want to go red or brown that the color cannot be altered after it is done. If they are even 1 percent “not sure,” I ask them to go try on wigs. They must always sign our colorchange agreement prior to color. With that said, do not strip out the red. You need red to create brown on previously blonde hair. Without the red, the hair will turn to an ugly gray/green, hideous shade. Do not make her hair brown for free. You must charge for this! Tell the client that after you create the new brown shade, she cannot change this color for at least six months. Color removers, lighteners or bleaches will seriously damage the previously blonde hair. If she understands and still wants to go brown, I would do the following: Blend Shades EQ: 1 oz 05G with 04NB and 2 oz SEQ Lotion. Apply this formula from roots to mid shaft, and process under heat for 15 minutes. Bring the remaining formula onto the ends and process again, under heat, for 15 more minutes. Decide after the hair is dry if you want more depth. If yes, apply lowlights in foil with Wella Color touch: 3/0 mixed with 4/77 and Emulsion 1.9 percent. Remember, this is not your fault. You did a great job and did what the client wanted. Be nice, but charge for your beautiful work. Ask Beth A Dark beauty gets heat from molten metals. Hair by Affinage. Photo by Paul Sargaison. ON TREND Hot Chocolate UCHARGE Right through to spring, deep-chocolate browns, thawed with warm slices of copper and gold, transform classic cuts into bold statements. According to Michael Elving, national artistic education manager for Affinage USA, long, layered locks in dark chocolate take on sizzling dimension when just 10 slices of custom-mixed Infiniti intensive golden blonde are added through the crown. A short, coffee-colored bob brightens its outlook with a heavy diagonal weave of medium copper blonde and bRED copper, placed within a triangular shape. Whatever the dominant weather conditions, accents go opposite for a warmcool balance. Bundled Pricing! To build slow Tuesdays and help clients through tough times Gerald Haynes, owner of Geraldo’s of Northville in Plymouth, Michigan, sends out e-blasts for any trio of services at a bundled price. For instance, when clients book hair color, a facial and a manicure, they receive 20-percent off the ticket. “We’re learning not to send them too far in advance, to avoid killing the days before Tuesday,” says Haynes. “Clients almost always choose hair color as one of the services.” By holding staff contests and offering client rewards, he now has 3,000 e-mail addresses. And by letting clients choose their own service trio to discount, he’s helping them afford what they want, which is exactly what marketing pros advise. 54 JANUARY 2009 www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - January 2009

Modern Salon - January 2009 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors Modersalon.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Choose Beauty Modern Business Process Crowing Glory New Year. New Looks Urban Gypsy Crowning Glory New Year. New Looks Modern Hair Modern Education The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - January 2009

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