Modern Salon - March 2008 - (Page 128)

Pleated Color “Hair color today is really all about texturizing the hair,” says salon owner, educator and color artist Patrick McIvor. “How you put the hair in the foils is as interesting as where you put them.” To demonstrate, McIvor used dozens of foils on our model in what he calls a “pleating” technique, designed to complement the shaggy razor cut by McIvor Color Studio Style Director Jayson Morgan. “Some color is placed from scalp to ends, some just on the ends and some from mids to ends,“ says McIvor. “This is a way to get more light where there is less hair.” McIvor uses two foils within a single section, weaving them on opposing diagonals, “one for accent and one for softness. One will fall into line and the other will fall over. To the eye, there is no line.” At the shoulders, McIvor performs a texture accenting technique, “’puddling,’ like the puddling of drapes on the floor.” Since the razor cut removed light from the ends, this color technique restores light to thinned areas. “For darkening, we do just the opposite,” he says. “We glaze with a minimum of two colors to create depth and light and texture down the shaft.” Continued on page 130 Styling assistance by Kristen Linares; photography by Roberto Ligresti; make-up by David Maderich for Halley Resources and www.mistermakeup.com; photostyling by Viviana Rodriguez. Silver top by Ted Baker London; black shirt by Forever 21. For the color: Lift 5/15 with 40-volume developer for the highlift bleach formula; for the highlift blonde, Double Fusion Gb with double-40 developer; for the cool blender, Color Gels Clear mixed with a capful of 6NA and 20-volume developer; for the base glaze, Shades EQ 09GB mixed with dedicated developer; for the end glaze, Shades EQ 09G and Crystal Clear in equal parts mixed with dedicated developer. All color by Redken. Additional products: Color Extend shampoo and conditioner, Clear Moisture Polishing Prep, Protect Shot treatment, WorkForce 09 spray, Guts volumizing spray foam, and a cocktail for the ends of Satinwear and Concrete 25, all by Redken. Gloves and foils by Product Club; HaiElite HaiOnic 1875 blow dryer; HaiElite Digistik flatiron; brushes by I/M; shears by Hikari and Fan Out; Kasho razor. Foundation by Kett Cosmetics; Target Solutions Capillary Inhibitor; Aveda Juneberry Lip Shine; Napolean Perdis Lip Laquer; nail color by CND. 128 MARCH 2008 www.modernsalon.com http://www.mistermakeup.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - March 2008

Modern Salon - March 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook @ModernSalon.com Contributors Your Turn New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Ask the Experts Choose Beauty In Full Bloom Color Fact Pack The Facts: Fact Pack Hair Color Business: Great Growth The Future of Color Case Study: Bad Hair Gone Good Professional Profile The List Metropolis Pleated Color Modern Update The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - March 2008

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