Modern Salon - March 2008 - (Page 66)

ASK THE EXPERTS Your Questions Answered Taming Texture, Mixing Chemicals and Selling Color How can I help clients avoid frizz? Lorraine Massey, author of the how-to manifesto Curly Girl and co-founder and owner of the Devachan Salon and Departure Lounge in Manhattan and DevaConcepts products, is a noapologies curly-hair specialist. She’s devised her own method of dealing with curls, which she dubs “Logicurl,” and says the system’s styling precepts can be taught to clients for home use in three steps. “First, give the curls what they want—moisture,” she says. “Curly hair is dry and thirsty. Shampoos containing sodium lauryl sulfate only make the hair thirstier. When the hair is thirsty, it tries to get moisture by absorbing it from the air. This is why hair gets ‘big’ on humid days.” Her recommendation is to prescribe botanical cleansers and moisturizers in sulfate-free formulas for home care. Next, she says, throw in the towel. “Towels are too heavy and absorbent for gentle fabric such as hair. They cause friction, disturb the curl pattern, tend to leave knots and create frizz.” The Devachan staff presses paper towels into wet hair. “This provides a flatter and smoother surface, absorbing just enough water to allow the styling products to set the curls and keep them intact,” Massey says. The client should be instructed to use paper towels or old Tshirts to pat the hair dry. The third step is for the client to use a top-line dryer with a diffuser attachment, like the new-technology ionic professional dryers. At all costs, the client must “avoid an over-dried and fried top Lorraine Massey says curly hair needs layer and wet under-layer,” moisture first. Massey says. The regimen “translates into a beautiful, natural curl and no frizz!” n —Maggie Mulhern How do I convince clients to make seasonal color changes? Joico’s Vero K-Pak Color Artistic Director Sue Pemberton says, start with yourself. “It’s very important for the stylist to change her hair. I find when I’d change my hair color, my clients would come in and say, ‘Do you think that would look good on me?’” While changing your own hair seasonally is a great way to advertise and show what’s in style, Pemberton believes it also opens the door to new services. “If your staff has current seasonal looks it opens up conversation and inspires clients to make a change,” she says. Another tactic You are the best advertisement for color change, Pemberton has used is says Sue Pemberton. strategic booking. “If I had a client who was reluctant to change her hair, I would book her right after someone that I just gave a new color and style which would work on the reluctant client as well,” she says. “It gives a visual.” The changes don’t have to be a full-on makeover, Pemberton says. Subtle change is always good. Most clients like to go a bit lighter for spring and summer. For fall and winter, a darker demipermanent color is great, and it will fade away so that by the time spring comes, you’ll have a perfect canvas for lightening it up again. “Encourage clients to try things out subtly,” says Pemberton. “The beauty of hair color is that if a client really doesn’t like it, you can always cover it up.” n —Alicia Marantz Liotta Continued on page 68 66 MARCH 2008 www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

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Modern Salon - March 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook @ModernSalon.com Contributors Your Turn New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Ask the Experts Choose Beauty In Full Bloom Color Fact Pack The Facts: Fact Pack Hair Color Business: Great Growth The Future of Color Case Study: Bad Hair Gone Good Professional Profile The List Metropolis Pleated Color Modern Update The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - March 2008

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