Modern Salon - June 2008 - (Page 64)

# 1Worldwide Hair Polishers continued from 63 In The Jar FANTASIA The trend is away from products that cause redness and irritation (such as AHAs and retinoids, which also cause sun sensitivity) and toward “bioactives,” some of which attempt to mimic or activate the body’s own defense systems. Much of cosmetic chemists’ current activity is directed at understanding the mechanisms of aging, replacing biofactors that are depleted as we age and delivering them in an efficacious and non-irritating manner. One major focus is on combating the effects of free radicals. The goals are to limit wrinkling, sagging, brown spots and other signs of aging. New ingredients for brightening or firming skin, filling lines and fading spots are also on the fast track. What’s Hot According to Kline and Company, in 2002 vitamins were the leading product category in terms of value in the anti-aging market, with 60 percent of sales. Next were polysaccharides (20 percent), botanicals, proteins and enzymes. Other cosmeceutical ingredients being hyped by chemists at the HBA (Health and Beauty Aids) Expo over the past few years include bioactives, peptides, enzymes and new exfoliants that are chemical in nature, as opposed to granular. One example: papaya enzymes. The issue with most bioactives is that they behave one way in nature but resist being stabilized in a jar to continue to deliver their benefits in a human body system. Ingredients to know that are on the market now include: • Active copper, used to treat wounds, helps smooth and tighten skin when it’s formulated as copper peptide. Various other peptides help promote the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid to firm, smooth and soften skin. • Antioxidants are vitamins, minerals and enzymes that help protect against free radicals. A few: Vitamins A, C, and E; soy; coenzyme Q10 and selenium. Vitamin C is the only antioxidant that is proven to stimulate the synthesis of collagen. Alpha-lipoic acid is another super-antioxidant that’s both water and oil-soluable. Newest are idebenone, an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, and lutein, a carotenoid or organic pigment found in dark leafy vegetables, egg yolks and carrots. SOD (superoxide dimutase) is another bioactive antioxidant with great promise. Hinds notes that using antioxidants with Retin-A is not synergistically correct—over-dried skin won’t reap their intended benefits. 64 JUNE 2008 For the greatest shine on earth! ™ Fantasia offers an exciting line of haircare products for every style and type hair. HAIR POLISHERS Daily Hair Treatment Heat Protector Olive Moisturizer Color & Chemically Treated Hair • Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids. AHAs (glycolic, lactic, tartaric and citric acids for fine lines and age spots) and BHAs with salicylic acid (to exfoliate and fight acne) remain popular, although many AHA-based brands disappeared from mass shelves when NeoStrata’s Drs. Eugene Van Scott and R. J. Yu began defending their numerous AHA patents in court. • DAME, a natural substance derived from salmon or sardines, is intended to help strengthen the cell’s plasma membrane and reduce fine lines. • Hyaluronic acid, which occurs naturally, lubricates connective tissues and disappates with age. It’s often formulated with vitamin C, which aids its penetration. • Hydroquinone, kojic acid and icinetin are all skin lighteners used to even skin tone. The First Line of Defense If everyone used sunscreens all the time, say dermatologists, skin care companies would go broke. Maybe or maybe not, but sunscreens are the first-line defense against the number-one cause of aging, the sun’s UV rays. Formulating them with antioxidants helps make them safer and boosts the SPF. (When sunscreens absorb UV light, they create free radicals to get rid of the energy they absorbed.) Speaking of, “SPF” no longer means Sun Protection Factor. In late 2007, the FDA issued new rules for sunscreen labeling and UVA ratings. What you need to know: SPF refers to UVB rays, the kind of UV rays that cause sunburn. The FDA ruling will still require products to list their SPF factor, but there’s a new, four-star rating system to list UVA protection. One star means continued on 66 Fantasia Industries Corporation 20 Park Place, Paramus, NJ 07652 © 2008 Made in USA fantasiahaircare.com www.modernsalon.com http://fantasiahaircare.com http://fantasiahaircare.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - June 2008

Modern Salon - June 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook @Modernsalon.com Contributors New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Ask the Experts Color 911 Skin Care Special: In the Jar Toolbox A Night Out... Layered Color Modern Update Personal Style

Modern Salon - June 2008

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