Modern Salon - July 2008 - (Page 66)

FOR CHEMICAL SPECIALISTS Chem Lab Chemistry know-how matters. To count the ways, we talked to Cassandra Celestin (www.thehairchemist.com), who holds a cosmetology license and a master’s degree in cosmetic chemistry. She’s worked with companies such as L’Oreal, Shiseido, Clairol, Dark and Lovely, Vidal Sassoon, to name a few, and currently freelances in Miami Beach. Q: How did your chemistry degree help when you worked in a salon? A: I understood how products worked on hair both structurally and topically. It also helped me choose the right brand for specific results. Because of certain raw materials, one brand of blonde translates into more pink while another is more golden. The experience of formulating helped me correct color. Q: What’s the most interesting project you worked on as a chemist? A: We were asked to develop a hair color you could flatiron into the hair. The problem was that it left residue. The company decided there was no market for it—they felt services like Japanese thermal straightening would become too trendy. Q: What’s the newest trend in color chemistry? A: Companies are using a lot of different raw materials to improve the hair’s fiber and manage free radicals. A glamor look by cosmetologist/chemist Cassandra Celestin. Photography by Hector Rodriguez; make-up by Cassandra Celestin MAKEOVER SPOTLIGHT The Hairbenders International Team in Chattanooga, Tennessee, banishes stripes with freeform peek-a-boo lights. The model is a natural Level 5/6 with virgin hair. First, a lightening formula, 6 grams of Artego 7.44 permanent color with equal parts 30-volume developer and 3 grams of extra blonding crème, is applied freehand to small sections. The rest of the hair gets equal parts of the 7.44 and 5-volume developer. The formulas process simultaneously for 20 minutes. Photography by Tom Carson; production by Global Hair & Fashion Group. Q: What do colorists misunderstand about chemistry? A: They don’t know precisely how color works in the hair. Once, the top colorist at a company didn’t understand why a semipermanent color used in foil after bleaching left zebra stripes from time to time. It came down to how semipermanent color deposits and then gets disturbed with several foil folds. The resolution was to avoid folding foils and use a filler. Colorists have to ask more questions about how and why a product does what it does. Q: What would you like to see developed next? A: More metallic tones. Not chrome or titanium hair color, but iridescent, luminous shades that work with what’s happening in fashion. CLICK! For more Process, go to ModernSalon.com and click on Color and Texture. You can also sign up for the free Process color and texture update e-newsletter. JULY 2008 66 www.modernsalon.com http://www.thehairchemist.com http://www.thehairchemist.com http://ModernSalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - July 2008

Modern Salon - July 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors @Modernsalon.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Ask the Experts Summer Blcokbusters Chem Lab On Trend My Process Ask Beth Your Makeovers Feel the Beat Shanghai Express Sweet 15 Modern Hair Modern Beauty Modern Education The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - July 2008

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