Modern Salon - July 2008 - (Page 72)

PROCESS Ceramic Straightening & Curling Iron Ask Beth Beth Minardi, co-owner of Minardi Salon in NYC. THE ONLY ONE. – Heats up to 410º in 15 seconds – Create curly, wavy, or straight hair – One Year Warranty We color my client’s hair to Level 6, and now she says she wants “Drew Barrymore’s color.” But what she thinks is Drew’s color and what I think are two different things. I’m at a loss. —Tara, Florida Q A The good news is that your client has a definite. The bad news is she can’t really tell you what it is. You can’t expect her to speak your language. Drew Barrymore changes her color regularly, plus her shade varies from photo to photo and from movie to movie, so I recommend that you ask the client to bring a photo of Drew wearing the exact shade she wants to her next salon visit. Tell her that then you will have a color consultation to evaluate the current level, tone and condition of her hair. Only after this will you be able to make a proper assessment of whether Drew’s color is achievable or even appropriate for your client. low the treatment with an application of a sunflower or warm golden-toned colorenhancing shampoo and conditioner. Some months down the road, you will be able to both highlight and lowlight the hair to the desired mixed of tones. One note: You didn’t share the client’s natural color level. If it is dark, you will want to begin the color service by lightening the regrowth gently. What is easier on the hair, highlift color mixed with 40-volume developer or lightener mixed with 20-volume developer?—Ilene, Massachusetts It’s not a matter of which is gentler. These formulas are meant for two different purposes and both should be used with care. Highlift shades very effectively lift and tone lighter natural colors to gorgeous blondes. That said, I’ve seen that repeated applications of highlift color (often overlapping) can create brassy results and breakage. Professional lighteners, with accompanying boosters and mixed with hydrogen peroxide, are needed to lift darker colors beyond orange to a lighter, cooler shade. Proper application and timing of these formulas are critical to success. Start your lightening services by asking yourself, “What must I use to achieve the result I want, and is the hair strong enough to accept the product I have chosen?” Finally, never place any client under heat while highlift color or professional lightener (bleach) remains in contact with the scalp. Q A My client is a Level 10 with highlights and she wants to be a Level-7 coppery blonde with highlights and lowlights. What should I do?—Vito, Florida Hair this light must be treated with care. Why not use it your advantage? Since the hair is blonde, leave some of it blonde—as a highlight. Then add lowlights. I would inject two different lowlight tones into this hair. For the first, I’d use a creamy no-lift demipermanent very light golden blonde mixed with a coppery medium blonde shade. For the second, I’d use the same creamy no-lift demipermanent product line, mixing a medium coppery blonde with a dark golden blonde shade. I’d wrap lowlight sections close to one another, leaving tiny sections of the existing blonde unfoiled between them. Once the lowlights are processed, fol- Q A AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT ARMSTRONG McCALL 800.237.2566 Have a question for Beth? E-mail mmulhern@vancepublishing.com with “Ask Beth” in the subject line. © 2008 Image One. All Rights Reserved. 72 JULY 2008 www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - July 2008

Modern Salon - July 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors @Modernsalon.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Ask the Experts Summer Blcokbusters Chem Lab On Trend My Process Ask Beth Your Makeovers Feel the Beat Shanghai Express Sweet 15 Modern Hair Modern Beauty Modern Education The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - July 2008

For optimal viewing of this digital publication, please enable JavaScript and then refresh the page. If you would like to try to load the digital publication without using Flash Player detection, please click here.