Modern Salon - September 2007 - (Page 60)

on the cover Welcome to the September/ October edition of MODERN SALON’S PROCESS! The magazine for and about career hair colorists has expanded our reach and content. This special section is now focused on ALL chemical service specialties and reaches more than twice the number of salon professionals it did before. In these pages and in the future, every member of the MODERN SALON community will ﬁnd technical, trend and product information on both color and texture services. What hasn’t changed is MODERN’s commitment to helping you be your professional best. Continually developing your chemical service expertise is one of the most proven ways to ensure your success and ﬁnancial growth. Enjoy this issue and, if you have any questions for our PROCESS team, please email Editor in Chief Mary Atherton at MAtherton@modernsalon.com Xena Parsons, owner of Xena’s in NYC, used: Top: 10-cc Framesi 5NP with 20-cc 15-volume developer Remainder: 20-cc 6SD and 5-cc 70 Doc (gold concentrate) with 50-cc 25-volume developer Side foils: 5-cc 8RP and 5-cc 8SD with 20-cc 30volume developer (Photo by Tom Carson; production by the Global Hair & Fashion Group) text message A colorist and certified trichologist at Lee Anthony & Company in Costa Mesa, California, Keiko Shino knows the idiosyncrasies of near-black Asian hair. Besides experimenting on her own, she for years colored human-hair wefts at Garland Drake. Here’s her lowdown: Q: What’s happening with hair color among Asians? A: Trends throughout Asia and with Asian-Americans all come from Japan’s Harajuku district, where teens start them. While you practically need dynamite to get it, very blonde is the hottest color to have. Deep burgundy is also very popular because it’s easy to achieve by lightening to orange, then adding burgundy over the top. It’s long lasting. Q: What does it take to make Asian hair blonde? A: I experimented with my own hair once, and with [Clairol] Basic White and 20-volume, it took me four days to get blonde. I left it on five hours every day, and only the tips were melting; the roots were strong. That’s because coarse Asian hair has fewer sulfur bonds. It takes to a perm fast, but when coloring, there are fewer bonds that color products can break down to weaken the hair. It stays strong, which is good because it takes a lot to get to blonde. To avoid damage and get cool blonde highlights, I use 60-volume developer with powder bleach and no heat. Watch it carefully! For all-over blonde, you can’t go past 40-volume near the scalp. Use powdered bleach or a high-lift color and 40-volume. Do the ends first, then use a fresh mixture to do the rest of the hair with an off-the-scalp application. You may need three applications, and you still have to tone it. Q: Is it true it’s harder for products to penetrate the cuticle of Asian hair? A: At Garland Drake, we had to strip the hair to see which direction the cuticle was going in order to create wefts with all the cuticles moving in one direction. Chinese hair had 11 layers of cuticle to get through, which isn’t easy. Q: Do hair color products made in Asia work better on Asian hair? A: Color products from other countries have less peroxide and more ammonia. They might lighten hair faster, but the FDA doesn’t allow them. You have to compensate with higher developer volumes. Taking Asian Hair Blonde PROFESSIONAL TIP! Chemical service specialists know the importance of seeking out the best education. Our columnist Beth Minardi is gathering some of the best in the biz to join her for one of the most informative, inspiring events in our industry: ColorAmerica with Beth Minardi, Oct. 20-22 in Chicago. For more details and to register online, visit www.americasbeautyshow. com/coloramerica or call 800-648-2505. 60 SEPTEMBER 2007 www.modernsalon.com http://www.americasbeautyshow.com/coloramerica http://www.americasbeautyshow.com/coloramerica http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - September 2007

Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors Your Turn @ModernSalon.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports For the Chemical Specialist News and Trends Ask Beth Your Makeovers Color Clients Ask the Experts Collective Thinking Global Chic Hair of the Century Short with Shine Modern Update The Goods Personal Style Memo

Modern Salon - September 2007

For optimal viewing of this digital publication, please enable JavaScript and then refresh the page. If you would like to try to load the digital publication without using Flash Player detection, please click here.