Modern Salon - September 2007 - (Page 66)

color lab My Process: Tie-Dye Candy Shaw-Codner, colorist, Jamison Shaw Hairdressers, Atlanta. Steps: 1. Beginning behind the ear at the nape, take a medium slice about 2 1/2-in wide and foil with bleach and 20-volume developer. Then create three back-to-back foils in this area. Move across the back, skip a wide section and repeat. 2. Move up and around the head, repeating the back-to-back foils and the foil-skip-repeat procedure. While placement is random, it tends to follow the rounds and the cut’s layers. Skipping sections horizontally and vertically is what creates the tie-dye effect. 3. Foil fewer pieces on top and leave the hairline free. Process for 25 minutes, rinse and shampoo. 4. Apply Manic Panic Red Vamp to the lightened pieces and process 30 minutes. Tips: Create a new base at the same time by coloring between the foils. When you break the “eye and skin tone” rules by using red-violet on clients with golden skin tones, keep the natural color closest to the face. What are ceramides? Ceramides are part of the intercellular lipids that make up a portion of the hair cuticle, along with sterols (a kind of lipid, fatty compound) and fatty acids, explains Michael DeGeorge, Put back the ceramides to keep hair strong. director hair color (Photo courtesy L’Oréal product develop- Professionnel) ment for L’Oréal. Basically, says DeGeorge, ceramides act as cuticle cement. “The intercellular lipid layer of the hair represents 3 percent of the hair’s composition,” says DeGeorge. “Hair that is damaged contains little or no ceramides. Even before hair is colored, ceramides are lost due to physical and environmental stress. “The coloring process is a chemical service, and we know from studying the hair before and after coloring there is a loss of ceramides, which results in a weakened, dull hair fiber.” Synthetic ceramides, like Ceramide R (a L’Oréal patented ingredient) mimic natural ones, so they replenish the ceramide that is lost during the coloring process and help maintain the integrity of the fiber. “Ceramide R attaches between the damaged hair cuticle to provide reinforcement of the hair fiber,” says DeGeorge. Many L’Oréal Professionnel hair color products contain Ceramide R as part of its Incell technology, including Majirel, Majilift, Majicontrast, Majiblonde, Richesse, HiRichesse and Richesse HiChroma. Send your chemistry questions to matherton@vancepublishing.com Photography by Tom Carson; make-up by Betty Mekonnen; production by Global Hair & Fashion Group. what ucharge The Retouch An Albert Luiz Salon and Spa Sugarland, TX Color retouch: $65 Bleach retouch: $80 “Every color service includes a complimentary blow dry.” Stonehouse Inn and Spa Macungie, PA Full foil, color retouch and cut: $136 Full foil and color retouch without cut: $118 “We’re also a bed and breakfast, so we don’t get a lot of demand for simple retouches, which are $54, including shampoo and blow dry.” Artisan Salon Livermore, CA Retouch: $55, or $47 with any other color service Color refresh (shaft and ends remix): $15 Full-head highlight retouch: $98 and up “When they’re available, associate designers charge 20 percent below the regular salon fee.” CLICK! 66 SEPTEMBER 2007 www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - September 2007

Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors Your Turn @ModernSalon.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports For the Chemical Specialist News and Trends Ask Beth Your Makeovers Color Clients Ask the Experts Collective Thinking Global Chic Hair of the Century Short with Shine Modern Update The Goods Personal Style Memo

Modern Salon - September 2007

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