Modern Salon - September 2008 - (Page 70)

PROCESS Continued from page 68 bonds in their new formation. Thio-based straighteners should never be used on hair that’s been exposed to a sodium relaxer, or one if its relatives. When should you use a “traditional” relaxer and when should you choose a thio-based product? For super-curly and classic African-American textures, traditional products are the best choice. Depending on the curl configuration, thio-based products are for clients who want everything from frizz-reduction to curl-control to smooth, straight locks. Their natural texture can range from straight to moderately curly. When coloring hair that’s been exposed to thio-based products, avoid same-day, permanent-color services, lest you lighten the hair. “Normally, same-day semi- or demipermanent color services create little problem,” says Sturman. “However, if you just used a chemical texturizer and the color product relies on progressive dyes, leaving it on too long will cause the hair to be too dark. The color will take faster with any same-day service, due to increased porosity.” Recently, “Brazilian” straighteners have been in the media. Many contain formaldehyde at controversial levels. In response, several companies have now launched formaldehyde-free keratin straightening treatments. They rely on the concept that curly hair has less keratin than straight hair. Add keratin, seal it in with flatironing and various polymers, and the hair stays straight. Because these products do not use thio or lye, chemical incompatibility is not an issue. Theoretically, this allows you to use them on previously sensitized hair, or even apply color the same day as the keratin treatment. However, the hair’s moistureprotein balance must be kept in mind. Keratin is protein, and an overabundance of protein can make hair hard and brittle. CHEMICAL CURLING AND RETEXTURIZING Forming curls chemically is a less permanent proposition than straightening services. Whether you use a traditional thiobased (acid or alkaline) or a cysteine (amino acid) texturizer to create curl, the hair’s bonds are broken. They reform around a particular tool, chosen by diameter or shape for the desired final result. Today, rag and Velcro rollers provide the soft, loose look clients want. No matter the chemical type, less than 100-percent bond reformation can result in weakened or damaged hair. Also, thio requires swelling the cuticle, which abrades it and can cause dryness. Eventually, the curls relax. When used correctly, some of the newer texturizers swell the cuticle far less than traditional ones. Because they have an ionic attraction to the cortex, they allow superior bond reformation. They also use a narrow pH of 8 to 8.3, which is gentle on hair and allows better recovery. Other modern texturizers rely on bisulfite, an inorganic, simple salt that works at a pH of 6.5 to 7.5. It’s the weakest and mildest of reducing agents, used in a semipermanent or temporary texturizing service. COMBINING CHEMICALS It can’t be stressed enough: Performing permanent color and chemical texturizing services on the same day is not ideal. When the client wants both, semi- and demipermanent products are the safest options. Permanent color can be used two weeks after a relaxer re-touch and about three weeks after a virgin relaxer service. Wait at least two weeks after a thio-based service before using permanent color. In either case, perform a hair and scalp analysis, repeating the tests for porosity and elasticity. Your safety net: a strand test. n WHEN CHOOSING A TEXTURIZER, REMEMBER: • Acid waves have a pH below 7 and swell minimally, so they’re gentler on porous hair. They require both heat and mechanical tension. • Alkaline or “cold” waves have a pH of about 9 and don’t use heat. They swell the hair shaft to create tension and are for normal-to-resistant hair and wraps that use less tension, like most modern ones. • Low pH alkaline waves are buffered to reduce swelling. They’re best for colortreated hair, can be used with any wrap, require no heat and process quickly. • Exothermic waves are self-heating and self-timing. They use hydrogen peroxide to create a chemical reaction, and are used for over-processed hair. 70 SEPTEMBER 2008 www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

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Modern Salon- September 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors Modernsalon.com Modersalonlearning.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Ask the Experts Games Women Play News and Trends Using Safe Chemical Combinations Ask Beth Toolbox Haute Heads Fall Fantasy Fit for Fall Modern Hair Modern Beauty Modern Education The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - September 2008

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