Modern Salon - October 2007 - (Page 60)

ASK THE EXPERTS Answers on HOW DO I CREATE A GREAT UPDO? “The secret to creating the perfect updo is keeping everything very logical,” says Martin Parsons, author of Long Hair Secrets and king of dressed hair. “There is a simple assembly approach that offers the perfect basic shape.” Parsons starts the process with sectioning, dividing the hair into six even vertical panels. After backcombing, he directs and pins the back sections to the center back, brings back the sides to overlap the back, then directs the two front sections to the back. “This is so simple—a perfect updo for someone who does not do a lot of formal looks,” he says. For a more detailed look, he says, use more panels. Contrary to popular opinion, he says, “the size of a hairdo is determined by bobby pin placement, not by teasing. The farther a bobby pin is placed from the scalp, the larger the shape.” The pinning technique is important. “Too many bobby pins can interfere with an updo,” he says. “A criss-cross method secures the hair with the fewest number of pins. Simply slide a bobby pin up and over the section, then turn the pin over and slide it up along the scalp. Hold it in place and criss-cross it with a second bobby pin.” Backcombing provides control, not shape, he says. Take very small sections on fine hair, up to one-inch sections for thick, dense hair. “We used to tease horizontally, but now we go vertically. This removes bumps and makes the hair follow the shape of the head,” he says. “To make shapes easy to handle, tease with uniform strokes. For the first section I use 12 strokes. Continue around the head, teasing the hair in the same way. The hair will come out even.” updo voodoo, good hires and price hikes Martin Parsons takes a logical approach to the updo. Follow the shape, Parsons says. “Move your body in the direction you want the hair to go. Reaching around the hair could create bumps.” To smooth, Parsons starts from the base with long strokes. “This makes the hair shiny and smooth. Short little choppy strokes can make the hair bumpy, and it could also remove a lot of the teasing.” The best way to smooth the hair is with the comb placed flat or the brush tilted on its side to exert some pressure, but not enough to distort the teasing. To finish the look, spray the hair in the direction you want it to go. “This prevents burrs,” Parsons says. —Maggie Mulhern What should I look for in an esthetician? Salon and day spa owners generally come from the hair side of the business, and often don’t feel comfortable recruiting skin professionals to the staff. Lydia Sarfati, esthetician, spa owner and founder of Repêchage, outlines the basics. “An applicant must have a current license and must be a graduate of a 600-hour (or more) esthetic program from reputable school, ideally with at least three to five years handson experience,” she says. As opposed to the fashion-forward hairdresser, an esthetician must project a more conservative, almost clinical image, says Sarfati, “clean, hygienic, polished and presentable, with no long nails, hair out-offace, neatly attired in casually elegant clothing. “And good skin!” In the interview, look for excellent communication and presentation skills, “including proper diction, good eye contact and the ability to consult with clients,” says Sarfati. He or she must be able to sell retail using the art of recommendation.” While the owner should do an independent background check, two or three letters of recommendation show an applicant with Lydia Sarfati says an esthetician’s appearance can help you hire. superior organizational skills, she says. Finally, look for commitment. You need someone with “a passion for skin care,” Sarfati says.—MM continued on page 62 60 OCTOBER 2007 www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

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Modern Salon - October 2007 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Beauty Matters Contributors Your Turn @Modernsalon.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Ask the Experts Choose Beauty When Short Goes Chic - Again Simply Dressed Quick-Change Artist Holiday Makeover Modern Update The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - October 2007

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