Modern Salon - October 2007 - (Page 72)

YOUR BUSINESS continued from 70 Retro versus Vintage For younger stylists like Holzberger, the return of the bob is the first time he has seen “a craze come back.” Like many stylists today, his reference is the bobs of the ’90s, but for the new shorter bobs, he says, you need precision cutting skills. His dividing line? If hair covers the ear a bit, you need an exacting line; if it’s shorter, the cut becomes “as simple as a men’s cut” (which to some stylists isn’t so simple). For experienced cutter and educator Richard Weintraub, owner of the Yellow Strawberry Salons in Sarasota, Florida, the same short-hair cutting principles he’s used over his career still apply. The cut must be appropriate for the client—which means visually balanced—and it must work with the hair’s fabric. It should also complement a client’s lifestyle, psychological tolerance and physicality. “As an educator for our school and the salons, I know the hardest thing to do is to train the eye,” says Weintraub. “Short hair is technical, but you can teach technique fairly quickly. For the first three years, the hardest thing for stylists to master is [learning] that wool drapes differently than silk, and the same concept applies to different hair fabrics.” New York’s East Village neighborhood has always been the mecca of hair trends, so it’s no surprise that Michael Damico’s Crops for Girls is located there. A short-hair specialist (perhaps a future trend in itself?), Damico opened his salon in 1992, and quickly became disillusioned with women who only wanted trims. By carving out a short-hair niche, he reignited his professional passion. “There are more details in short cuts; they’re so much more creative and versatile,” says Damico. “Every client wants a different look. The cuts themselves are similar to the short cuts of the late ’80s, but they are a lot flatter.” Traci Sakosits, Vidal Sassoon’s regional creative director for education, North There are more details in short cuts; they’re so much more creative and versatile. “ America, says what makes any cut retro, as opposed to vintage, is balance and proportion. “There are more internal details in today’s short cuts, the silhouettes are leaner and there is more disconnection, with short and longer pieces adding versatility,” she says. “New stylists will need a classic foundation in cutting to have something to reference, while experienced stylists will need to approach the cuts differently. With very short cuts, the hairline, neck, bone structure and cheekbones are all exposed, so you need to pay great attention to detail. You’ll have to match your technique to the client in your chair to create a cut that’s suitable for her.” Ones Most Likely Nearly 100 percent of Weintraub’s clients are going shorter, he says, in part because he aggressively promotes seasonal shape and color changes. Recently, he cut off the Rapunzel-length hair of 15 high-school girls who donated their tresses to the Locks of Love charity. His experience highlighted the emotional side of going short—particularly for younger girls. There were tears, albeit happy tears, he says, but mostly from the mothers. “For the seniors, it was a rite of passage; for the younger girls, it was like a coming of age,” says Weintraub. “The mothers were the most emotional because they saw their little girls grow up right before their eyes.” Weintraub’s business partner Coral Pleas arranged the entire fundraiser, and from years of experience, she knew the “musts” to apply. First, she held the fundraiser post-prom because she knew clients should never make a change before a big event. She also had the girls write essays about why they wanted to participate. She chose only those with the right reason—the spirit of giving—because anyone in transition, unsure or too emotional should never make a major style change. ” continued on 74 72 OCTOBER 2007 www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalonlearning.com http://www.modernsalonlearning.com http://www.vancepublishing.com http://www.modernsalon.com

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Modern Salon - October 2007 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Beauty Matters Contributors Your Turn @Modernsalon.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Ask the Experts Choose Beauty When Short Goes Chic - Again Simply Dressed Quick-Change Artist Holiday Makeover Modern Update The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - October 2007

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