Modern Salon - November 2007 - (Page 62)

chemistry set In this edition of Process, we look at the season’s trends for chemical specialists; the science behind the new chemical waves; trends in color for Hispanic, AfricanAmerican and Asian clients; writer and educator Beth Minardi’s Brass-busting techniques; and troubleshooting for rich reds. on the cover Dana Chapin of Cosmos Hair and Day Spa in Mesa, Arizona, transformed boring brunette into a tri-colored design that’s sure to show up in holiday photos. Her formulas are all processed at once from the placement of the final foil for 20 minutes. Base: 1½-oz Wella Koleston 5/3 (Golden Brown) with equal parts 20-volume developer. Blonde highlights: 1-oz Koleston 9/3 (Very Light Golden Blonde) with equal parts 30-volume developer. Copper highlights: 1-oz 8/43 (celtic copper) with equal parts 30-volume developer. (Photography by Taggart-Winterhalter; make-up by Jamie Queenin) chem lab How Do Semiperm Perms Work? For more a decade, perms have been buffered and formulated with conditioners, but their chemistry changed very little until last year, when ISO introduced Nexture, a semipermanent texture treatment. What’s truly different about this chemistry? First, some science: In dry hair, hydrogen bonds occur between proteins. Wet the hair, and it gets complicated. A protein molecule bonds with a water molecule; the resulting molecule bonds with another water molecule, then with yet another protein molecule. All this bonding creates weaker connections, which allow the hair to take on curl. Set the hair and dry it, and the proteins reform the hydrogen bonds to hold the new, curled shape temporarily. The bond-weakening is intensified in traditional perms, where thioglycolate breaks both hydrogen and disulfide bonds, and reshapes the latter around the rod or roller. Then, as hair is neutralized, the bonds become “permanent.” The new texture treatments work very near the pH of water and the isoelectric point of hair. Andrew Savaides, senior chemist for ISO, says traditional perms are based on thioglycolate salts and esters of glycerine that are functional at pHs from 8.0 to 9.4. But the semipermanents are based on bisulfite, a small and highly polar molecule used in the food industry as a preservative, that is functional at around pH 6.5 to 7.50. No fixative or neutralizer is needed, he says, since fixation or neutralization occurs during the water rinsing step. “The semipermanent actives break down primarily the salt or ionic bonds and hydrogen bonds in hair,” says Savaides. “They affect a small number of disulfide bonds, and the performance attributes can last up to about 20 shampoos.” As with traditional perms, some bonds remain broken, so you should still wait a week after a color service to use a semipermanent treatment. But the treatments are quite safe to use with color because of their low pH and selective reaction on hair, says Savaides. As far he knows, he adds, only ISO uses the proprietary technology. For more Process, go to ModernSalon.com and click on Color & Texture under Beauty Zones. You can also sign up for the monthly Process e-newsletter! 62 NOVEMBER 2007 CLICK! www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - November 2007

Modern Salon - November 2007 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Beauty Matters Contributors New-Now-Next Modern Reports For the Chemical Specialist News and Trends Ask Beth Color Clients Your Makeovers Ask the Experts Beating Body Burn-Out American Masters: Neo-Baroque Beauty Show Scooped Modern Update The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - November 2007

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