Modern Salon - November 2007 - (Page 64)

test it yourself Why Reds Go Wrong There are several ways to boost reds’ staying power, including re-pigmenting, color layering and using different developer volumes, but at the top of the list is having the correct contributing undertones. More than any other color, red relies on undertones for its vibrancy, richness and longevity. Specific undertones are present in natural hair at different levels. They range from blue and blue-violet to orange and pale yellow. Exposed when the hair color is lifted, undertones always contribute to the final color result. Natural hair color at higher levels will best support strawberry blondes; mid-range High-fashion reds are levels will best suphigh-maintenance. (Hair by Heading Out art port copper and red, team, Fitzroy, Australia; photo while darker levels by Kerry Leonard; make-up by Chris Coonrod; photostylsupport red-violet. ing by Minka Sicklinger) This explains why you must re-introduce missing undertones during a tintback. Porosity plays a role in maintaining reds, too. One of the biggest challenges in creating reds is to avoid over-lifting, which eliminates the necessary undertones to support desired results. Remember, the undertone plus the level of the new color and tone create the final result. Lifting to the red stage will support a red-violet; lifting to the red-gold stage will not. To explore this with your own color products, test out swatches in Levels 4, 5 and 6, with tints at Levels 5, 6 and 7, respectively. Use three developer volumes in each test. (On the Level-4 swatch, test a Level-5 red with 10-, 20- and 30-volume developer, and so on.) Ten-volume developer provides one level of 64 NOVEMBER 2007 Why do reds fade faster than other colors? Dispensary tests show undertones play a major role. lift, 20-volume provides two levels of lift and 30-volume allows three levels of lift. The test on the natural Level-4 hair should reveal deep red-chestnut, progressing to vibrant red; Level-5 results should progress from rich red-orange to red-gold, and Level-6 swatches should display strong copper to bright copper with yellow-orange undertones. Until you can perform your own tests, use this chart, created by ABCH Kim Maggio, as a guide to achieving reds: Lifting to these undertones strong red, red-orange red-orange yellow-orange, yellow Orange-red, burgundy and dark cherry co-exist beautifully when the top starts with subtle bleaching. (Hair by Lachane Lee for Elon Salon, Marietta. GA; photo by Tom Carson; make-up by Nico Sohn) Supports these results deep red and red-violet tones mid-range reds blonde reds Go beyond these undertones, and you won’t be able to achieve the supported results without adding missing pigments back. Didn’t hit your mark? Come try these concepts: • To soften a red, add neutral. The result is a softer, less vibrant red. • To create a stronger red-orange tone, add a small amount of red-violet to your formula. Natural red goes red-blonde with ease. (Hair by Leo Soerjo for Elon Salon; photo by Tom Carson; make-up by Nico Sohn) • To create a brighter red-violet tone, add a small amount of red-orange. It will increase the brightness of the red-violet. Holiday Hair Styling Atelier Salon Columbus, OH $55 and up Newer stylists start at $55; owner Mason, known as the “updo king,” charges $105 and up. “Many women don’t want a smooth up-look anymore. They like soft, natural-curl looks that have a very undone, effortless feel. The catch is the time it takes to prep the hair with irons.” what ucharge Zootz Vancouver $50 and up Nirvana Salon Los Gatos, CA $45 to $105 “For event styling, length determines the price, which increases in $20 increments. We go by short (above the shoulder), medium (touching the shoulder), long (below shoulder/ above bra line) and extra long (below the bra line). Style complexity and thickness are also considered.” “The charge for updos is by the hour, with a $50 minimum. We have many stylists who do bridal and specialty work.” www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Modern Salon - November 2007

Modern Salon - November 2007 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Beauty Matters Contributors New-Now-Next Modern Reports For the Chemical Specialist News and Trends Ask Beth Color Clients Your Makeovers Ask the Experts Beating Body Burn-Out American Masters: Neo-Baroque Beauty Show Scooped Modern Update The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - November 2007

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