Modern Salon - November 2008 - (Page 60)

FOR CHEMICAL SPECIALISTS Chem Lab S ome websites say sunscreens in hair care work only if the product is wet, others disagree. To get the real scoop, we asked Matt Malek, a cosmetic chemist at Shiva Labs in Houston, Texas, who holds a master’s degree in industrial chemistry, “Do sunscreens in hair care really work?” Q: You measured this with a Hunter Lab Colorimeter. In lay terms, what’s that and what is it measuring? A: The Hunter Lab Colorimeter is used by all hair color chemists. You can even buy a hand-held version from Minolta. This is an instrument that measures reﬂective colors from paper, fabric, hair, etc., so you can measure before and after. Q: You’ve measured bond cleavage, combability and tryptophan degradation in hair, in relation to hair care sun-protection ingredients. What is the role of tryptophan? A: Tryptophan is an amino acid that makes up part of the building blocks of protein, of which the hair is made. We can easily measure the decomposition of tryptophan when it is exposed to UV light or heat. It’s a marker that the hair protein/structure is being decomposed when people are in the sun or a UV environment. After International Specialty Products, recognized globally for innovative specialty products, published these ﬁndings in 1998, other researchers published supportive results that indicate UVB damage occurs throughout the cuticle and cortex. Combination of UVB exposure and shampooing dramatically enhances the loss of color from hair. n Color by Kelly McCarthy Photo by Tom Carson THE RIGHT APPLICATION A t Carmen, in Charlotte, North Carolina, molten-hot color comes from pre-lightening, then toning right over a base. Here, woven, star-patterned highlights are lifted with 10-volume Aveda Enlightener. After rinsing, the base is meshed on highlighted roots and brought through the ends. Here, it’s Aveda Full Spectrum Color, 60 grams 4N, 1 gram Dark BG, 6 grams Dark YO, 2 grams Dark RR with equal parts 20-volume Color Catalyst. Before foils are sealed, 5RR with 10-volume catalyst is melted over the top. The base is applied to the rest of the hair; processing follows manufacturer’s directions. n CLICK! For more Process, go to ModernSalon.com and click on Color and Texture. You can also sign up for the free Process color and texture update e-newsletter. PROCESS/NOVEMBER 2008 60 www.modernsalon.com http://www.ModernSalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

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Modern Salon - November 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors Modernsalon.com Modernsalonlearning.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Choose Beauty Cost-Effective Learning Chem Lab News and Trends Ask Beth Your Makeovers Cutting Edge The Golden Touch How-Tos Modern Hair Modern Beauty Modern Education The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - November 2008

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