Modern Salon - November 2008 - (Page 66)

PROCESS Your Makeovers COLOR CONCERTO Making cut and color work in harmony requires communication between cutter and colorist. When you customize the look for each client, you’ve got an original composition. T he dramatic, new A-line bob features disconnected front pieces, extreme exaggeration and subtle asymmetry. And those come from planning, point cutting and texturizing, says Elizabeth Stenstrom, of L Salon and Color Group in San Mateo, California. “The cut is very short in back and has a lot of layering,” says Stenstrom, who uses a ﬁve-toothed shear for the job. “For the strong front, I overdirect the pieces back, then forward. Because areas, like the fringe, are so heavy, the last thing you want is dark, solid color all-over.” That’s where colorist Shannon Davis comes in, playing the back and forth like lyricist to songwriter. To create a color design that appreciates the cut, she determines how much texturizing and layering is involved. “This tells me where to place the darker color so it pops out, adding dimension,” says Davis. “After the color is complete, break into the cut, piecing it out for detail,” advises Stenstrom. “Cutting on dry hair and determining where you want color to peek through lets you produce to the color’s beat, customizing the ﬁnal creation for each client.” n Color that Complements 1. Section off an outline around the head by parting off a 1 1/2-inch panel that starts behind the front hairline and moves around the face and back through the nape. Use a slight zigzag parting to avoid harsh lines. 2. Apply the Outline Formula to this section, using a small application brush. Seal in foil. 3. Apply Formula 2 to the rest of the hair, completely saturating it from roots to ends. Once the application is completed, process for a minimum of 40 minutes. “Using intense reds requires more time to lift and deposit,” says Davis. 4. Shampoo, rinse and apply the glosser. Re-rinse after 5 minutes. Formulas Used: Outline: 2-oz Wella Color Touch 3/66 (Level 3 violet/violet) with Gentle Emulsion Developer (slightly under 10 volume.) Formula 2: Wella Color Touch (doublepigmented red), 1-oz 55/46 (Level 5 red/ violet), 1-oz 44/65 (Level 4 violet red/ violet) and 1/2-oz 5/0 (Level 5 natural) with equal parts 20-volume developer. Glosser: 1-oz Wella Magma Clear Shine Strong side disconnects are melodic with over-under color. Hair by Elizabeth Stenstrom, L Salon and Color Group, San Mateo, CA. Color by Shannon Davis. Photo by Tom Carson. Production by Global Hair & Fashion Group. 66 PROCESS/NOVEMBER 2008 www.modernsalon.com http://www.modernsalon.com

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Modern Salon - November 2008 Contents Behind the Cover Notebook Contributors Modernsalon.com Modernsalonlearning.com New-Now-Next Modern Portfolio Modern Reports Choose Beauty Cost-Effective Learning Chem Lab News and Trends Ask Beth Your Makeovers Cutting Edge The Golden Touch How-Tos Modern Hair Modern Beauty Modern Education The Goods Personal Style

Modern Salon - November 2008

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