Salon Today - October 2008 - (Page 34)

The Business of Hair Enhancement “We’ve all seen the combover on men; it’s not attractive. Women make similar attempts.” —Rella Grubek Topical and Ingestible Products Wigs and Hairpieces Whereas 40 years ago women bought wigs as “fun” hair, today the market for what is now called “hair systems” tends to be both men and women who have lost hair for genetic, health or medical reasons. “When women have a hair loss or hair thinning problem, the ﬁrst person they’ll talk to is their spouse, and after that they’ll go to their hairdresser,” says Napolitano. “Most of the styling work is already done [in our Raquel Welch wigs], and it can be a modest purchase for clients at between $100 and $500 retail. High-end, 100-percent human hair wigs attract some clients as well and, in that case, salons can charge up to several thousand dollars because that wig is a blank canvas and the stylist must create the cut.” Wigs are not the only option for clients with alopecia, chemotherapy-caused hair loss and other thinning hair issues. Hairdreams offers a sort of hybrid—the Microlines system, named for its micro-ﬁne hair net with human hair strands that is bonded to the client’s remaining hair. While you may know that some of your clients take the pill Propecia or apply Minoxidil (also called Rogaine) directly to their scalp, the product in this category that is exclusive to salons is Nioxin, which is applied topically but includes a multi-vitamin supplement in Nioxin’s three-step scalp system consists of Cleanser, Scalp Therapy and Scalp the line as well. Treatment. “At Nioxin, we approach hair thinning as a skin care issue,” says Trevor Attenborough, vice-president of marketing. “Nioxin is a skin-based, anti-aging solution for the scalp.” Attenborough says that the product aims to cleanse and detoxify the skin on the scalp without stripping the hair. “The best quality hair you can have is the hair that’s just leaving the scalp,” he adds. “Chemical, environmental and thermal damage affects it after that. So start by improving the skin on the scalp. The resin build-up from ordinary styling products impacts the hair, while our styling products actually beneﬁt the scalp skin.” Nioxin has provided salons primarily with retail opportunities with its eight systems that cater to different needs and hair textures. However, the latest offering, Scalp Renew, is an in-salon service. The company suggests charging $50 to $75 for the 18-minute service, which includes 10 minutes of processing time. “The average facial resurfacing treatment is priced at about double what we’re suggesting,” Attenborough says. “Spas that already have a resurfacing treatment on the menu tend to push the price to $75 for the scalp, and you can do two of these in the time it takes you to do one hair color.” Laser As the latest entry poised to potentially sweep the market, laser light hair therapy is the “one to watch.” Gradually turning skeptics into believers, the technology is based on research indicating that light can promote healing and growth. Clients with anything short of “shiny bald” heads are candidates for laser therapy; as long as the follicle is not dead it can be nudged to grow more hair. “This is cold laser,” explains Robert Ward, president of Surf Side Laser. “It has no thermal component and cannot harm the operator. Thermal refers to every other type of laser—laser for eye surgery or to remove a tattoo, for example—and the difference is night and day.” The treatment routine varies. To grow hair, Miranda has her clients sit under the light for 30 minutes twice a week for eight weeks and then once weekly for anywhere from another two months to a full year. After that, she says, the client will likely need some type of periodic follow-up to keep hair strong and growing. 34 | October 2008 www.salontoday.com http://www.salontoday.com

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Salon Today - October 2008 Contents Note Reception Fashion Sense Spa Menu Roundtable Decor Blue Hair Studio Fully Booked Special Report: The Business of Hair Enhancement Products Owner to Owner

Salon Today - October 2008

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