A Catalog of Europe's Highlights - June 2017 - 22
ON THE TABLE
15 KITCHEN + BAR
What began as a pop-up restaurant recently
settled in at what is now a hipster-filled, perpetually busy permanent location. To keep
things fresh, the owners invite a different
young international chef to take over the
kitchen and reinvent the menu every three
months. "In the beginning, all our guest
chefs want ingredients they can't get, but in
my opinion, this is one of the best parts of the
job here," says chef Marat Odom. "They start
to think in different ways than they are used
to, and they try Russian ingredients that
they've never seen before."
ORDER THIS: Menus change quarterly. Recently, Edward Delling-Williams, formerly
of Au Passage in Paris, offered a rich chicken
liver and foie gras parfait balanced by a tart
rhubarb compote, and lightly fried calamari
with fresh broccoli and candied lemon.
Pozharskiy Lane 15; 15kitchenbar.ru.
Meat Eaters' Delight
Servers wearing red lipstick dish out 30
different types of steak at this cathedral
for the carnivore. Named after the region
from which the restaurant sources its beef,
Voronezh spans multiple stories that house
stylish dining rooms, a casual downstairs
bistro, and even a sprawling butcher's counter for takeaway or - for some enthusiastic
patrons - meat selfies.
ORDER THIS: Steak is the way to go, and the
menu includes helpful flavor descriptions
and notes on anatomical origins for those
unfamiliar with more obscure cuts, such as
tomahawk and bavette. Prechistenka Street 4.
LEPIM I VARIM
Pelmeni, or Russian dumplings, have been a
staple of Siberian cuisine for centuries, harking back to the days when hunters packed
sacks of the bite-size morsels for long trips
into the frozen taiga. While still popular
today, pelmeni tend to be associated with
subpar ingredients. Not so at Lepim i Varim
("Create and Boil"), a trendy café specializing in artisanal Siberian dumplings made to
order by grandmotherly types who expertly manipulate sprawling sheets of dough.
"It used to be easier to find dim sum in
Moscow than pelmeni," says cofounder
A C ATA L O G O F E U R O P E ' S H I G H L I G H T S
Clockwise from above left: Syrovarnya's arugula and tomato salad with stracciatella,
Lepim i Varim's pelmeni and seating, and shopping on swank Stoleshnikov Lane.
Nikolay Serdotetskiy. "It's our dream to
show the world that we do have interesting
food here in Russia."
ORDER THIS: All 12 dumpling varieties
are delectable, but orders of the "Famous
Shrimp" (prawns and chicken), "Tender
Barbarian" (cottage cheese), and "Mom's
Siberia" (pork and beef) provide a solid start.
Choose from nine sauce accompaniments.
Stoleshnikov Lane 9, Building 1.
Located in a former brewery, this restaurant-cum-fromagerie makes five types of
cheese on-site. Pick up a sandwich to go, or