Virtuoso Insights - February/March 2009 - (Page 26) Perennially blue skies, clear desert light, and the Instituto Allende attracted American art students during the 1950s and, ever since, the town has hosted a thriving community of expatriate artists. Throughout the town, a plethora of galleries exhibiting and selling their works can be found, including Galería Carlos Muro (Zacateros 81A), which also boasts one of the finest collections of arte en cobre martillado (art in handwrought copper) in the world. Also visit La Casa de la Cuesta (Cuesta de San José 32), which offers an excellent collection of colorful handicrafts and folk art. For further cultural immersion, several schools offer classes in the arts, Spanish, and the secrets of Mexican cuisine. When to visit? That depends upon your tastes. Though mostly tranquil, the town celebrates Mexican fiestas with gusto, not least the birthday of Ignacio Allende on January 21. It also plays host to several annual festivals, including the International Jazz & Blues Festival in November and even a Pamplona-style running of the bulls in September. guanaJuaTo a Colonial Work of arT Just a short drive away from San Miguel lies the historic state capital of Guanajuato, another Colonial gem but of a quite different style. Set in a wide ravine among sharp, rolling hills, the city’s “bowels” were hollowed out with the diversion of a local river in the early 20th century, thus diverting all traffic underground and leaving many streets traffic-free. Explore the tunnels via a private car before returning to street level in one of the many delightful, tree-shaded plazas, some of which, each October, play host to outdoor theater and music performances during the International Cervantino Festival. Ideal for idly exploring on foot, the city spirals out across picturesque topography, its pastel-colored houses punctuated by Clockwise from left: revolutionary view: Guanajuato as seen from the hilltop statue of El Pípila; lavish interior of Teatro Juárez, the town’s most prestigious theater; and the Jardín de la Unión, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. winding, narrow alleyways with curious names. Be sure to visit the famous Callejón del Beso, or Kiss Alley, where the upper balconies of the houses on either side almost touch. The city’s epicenter is the Jardín de la Unión, a horseshoeshaped plaza flanked by majestic townhouses harboring groundfloor restaurants with outdoor tables; in the afternoons and evenings, musicians flock here to serenade customers while they dine. Up above on the hilltop, flaming torch in its outstretched hand, stands the statue to El Pípila, hero of the independence war. You can take a short but steep walk up to the monument for a panoramic view of the city and its mosaic-like array of colored houses and magnificent churches, or take the adjacent funicular railway. More San Miguel and Guanajuato on page 28 P 26 Virtuoso insights
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