Virtuoso Traveler - August/September 2018 - 28
Travel Two Ways
The Amalfi Coast:
Cruise or Clifftop?
Pick your perch for soaking up this iconic corner of Italy.
By Susan Hanson
Pretty in pastels:
Spend a day in Amalfi on Oceania Cruises' Rome-toVenice voyage on the 684-passenger Nautica. Stroll
through Villa Rufolo's gardens, pick up souvenirs in
Positano, or sip limoncello in a cozy café. Other stops
on the ten-day sailing include Sicily, Malta, and Montenegro, but the dolce vita lifestyle remains on board at
Toscana, the ship's restaurant serving Tuscan-inspired
cuisine. Departure: October 27, 2018; from $1,699.
TALY'S AMALFI COAST IS A PHOTOGRAPHER'S DREAM,
with each hairpin twist and turn on the region's roads
revealing one postcard-worthy shot after another. "The
Amalfi Coast is all about the views," says Adamarie King,
travelers are familiar with the photos of pretty pastel houses
cascading down the hillside into the sea, and that's what they
expect to find. Luckily, it's all there for them to discover."
This rugged 30-mile stretch overlooking the Tyrrhenian
Sea - awash in soaring cliffs, sparkling bays, medieval towns,
and humble fishing villages - has been a playground for the
jet-set crowd since Augustus Caesar built a villa on nearby
Capri in the first century. Whether you're settling into a
cliffside suite or arriving via cruise ship, that playground can
Legend has it that the three islets of Li Galli - just off
get pretty popular, so King's best advice is to work with your
Positano and known as the "Sirenuse" - were inhabited
travel advisor to get off the tourist circuit and experience lo-
by sirens who lured sailors to their shores. Today's visitors
cal culture: Hike up to a hidden valley, take a cooking lesson
are seduced by Le Sirenuse, an eighteenth-century villa
in a rural farmhouse, taste wines at a family-run vineyard, or
with 58 rooms that feature vaulted ceilings, handmade
pop into a local trattoria for lunch. King's favorite times of
tiles, old-master paintings, and, of course, those stunning
the year to visit are spring and fall, when "the beaches are
coastal views. Doubles from $879; Virtuoso travelers
less crowded, and the weather is lovely."
28 V I R T U O S O T R A V E L E R
receive breakfast daily and a $100 spa credit.
(AMALFI COAST) ANDREA COMI/GETTY IMAGES, (SHIP) OCEANIA CRUISES
a Virtuoso travel advisor who lives part-time in Italy. "Most