VirtuosoLife - January/February 2008 - (Page 58) TASTING NOTES Here’s a look at some of Austria’s best bottles, and the regions from which they hail. WHITE WINES Riesling Like its neighbor Germany, Austria’s southern regions produce world-class riesling. Kamptal’s sandy, volcanic soils and its steep terraces have proven ideal for this varietal. The Schloss Gobelsburg 2006 Riesling vom Urgestein ($24) is a lovely example, with spritzy texture and citrusy tones; it comes from young vines in two superb vineyard locations. Admirable rieslings are also a calling card of progressive producer Fred Loimer, whose stunning Wineloft just outside the town of Langenlois is a masterpiece of contemporary architecture; the building is dominated by a 26-foot tasting table visible through sliding glass panels. The Loimer 2006 Riesling Kamptal ($18) delivers mineral complexity and bright, lifted flavors. Grüner Veltliner Austria’s signature varietal is grüner veltliner, a grape that produces zippy whites with zesty acidity, white pepper notes, and a refreshing finish. Late-ripening grüner veltliner thrives beautifully in the rocky 58 V I RT U O S O L I F E
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