VirtuosoLife - January/February 2008 - (Page 68) GLOBAL GOURMET dishes, porceddu, roast suckling pig. The flavorful meat arrived at the table under a layer of soft white fat and crackling skin. As we regarded it suspiciously, the waiter explained, “Sardinians eat first the skin, then the fat, then the meat. It’s natural!” It was an adventure, but we did enjoy the meat, which had a wild, fresh taste. Despite the local preference for meats, we were most impressed with the seafood. Bream, mullet, tuna, shellfish such as shrimp and lobster (the best come from Alghero), and anchovies were just a few of the creatures with recognizable names, though we saw at least a dozen others on menus and in markets around the island. A distinctly Sardinian seafood is bottarga, dried fish roe, which is grated over pasta for a salty tang. Pasta unites both sea and land, topped with various fish or meat sauces. Sardinian styles include malloreddus, a twisted shell-shaped dumpling, flavored with saffron and often topped with sausage and A taste of Sardinia, from left: Harvesting canonau grapes, Hotel Romazzino on Costa Smeralda, and mirto liqueur. Sardinia is an ancient land of self-described “shepherds, not fishermen,” that produces a varied, distinct cuisine. tomato sauce. Fregola is a lot like couscous and mostly used in seafood soups. Maccarones de busa are long and hollow, traditionally shaped by hand over knitting needles. Rich, festive culurgiones are plump ravioli filled with potatoes, veggies, or cheese. SuppInG In SARdInIA STAY » Hotel Cala di Volpe: In Porto Cervo on the Costa Smeralda, Cala di Volpe boasts luxury lodging and tailored-to-you service. Each of the 125 rooms and suites is uniquely furnished and decorated in bright, clear colors that mirror the property’s gorgeous private beach. The hotel can arrange crewed boat rentals, making you king of the coastline. Doubles from approximate $1,338 per night. Hotel Romazzino: Also in Porto Cervo, set on the coast against a backdrop of rich green hills, the 94-room Hotel Romazzino rises from the cliffs like a whitewashed Mediterranean dream. Breezy, subdued decor and romantic venues such as the Champagne Garden and beach club blur the lines between inside and out. Doubles from approximate $1,258 per night. DINE » Dining at Il Faro Ristorante is a must. The menu at this family-run restaurant changes every day and is often devoted to a theme such as snails or porcini mushrooms. Via Bellini 25, Oristano; 39-078/37-00-02 An elegant, modern choice in seaside Alghero, the Michelin-starred Andreini has a gorgeous dining room and tree-shaded garden. Choose from several tasting menus or order à la carte, including inventive dishes such as cuttlefish ravioli with oysters or more traditional choices like fusilli with pork ragout. Via Ardoino 45, Alghero; 39-079/98-20-98 For something casual in Tempio Pausania, try Il Giardino; the paper-covered tables outside fill faster than the white-clothed ones inside. Order pizza from the wood-burning oven or the amazing salads. On Sunday afternoons, dine with locals enjoying hearty family dinners. Via Cavour 1, Tempio Pausania; 39-079/67-10-79 On the Wine List As elsewhere in the Mediterranean, wine rules in Sardinia, and along with olive 68 V I RT U O S O L I F E (GRAPES) CEPHAS/HERBERT LEHMANN, (MIRTO) SIME/ESTOCK PHOTO In the Bread Basket Bread in Sardinia is usually crispy, the most famous being pane carasau, a paper-thin, bigger-than-a-dinner-plate round that is often topped with olive oil and salt. Dangerously addictive, it is used in dishes such as pane frattau, where it’s soaked in tomato sauce and topped with poached eggs. “Regular” bread may also show up in the basket and appear in suppas – for instance, the delicious and rich suppa cuata, which is absolutely not soup as we know it, but bread soaked in broth and baked with cheese.
For optimal viewing of this digital publication, please enable JavaScript and then refresh the page. If you would like to try to load the digital publication without using Flash Player detection, please click here.