Virtuoso Life - March/April 2008 - (Page 75) Sel Gris Salt that hardens on the bottom of French salt paddies combines with algae and clay to attain a gray color, thanks to those impurities. But what some call “impurities,” chefs call “flavor.” While not as refined as fleur de sel, sel gris has a stronger sea taste, making it ideal for cooking or for grinding in a salt mill. Grey Celtic sea salt is another example of sel gris. $14.99 at www.seasalt.com Smoked Salts Salts can be smoked over wood, just like meat, and then used to impart a hint of sweet mystery to food. Smoked salt is a brilliant way to add depth to salads and pastas, and it electrifies simple meat dishes such as pot roast. Many smoked salts exist, but three worth seeking out are fumée de sel, which is smoked over aged French chardonnay oak barrels and is only mildly salty and smoky; Salish, a stronger, alderwoodsmoked Pacific Northwest offering; and the intense kosher smoked, which might as well be called “instant bacon.” (SALT ISLAND) STEVE SIMONSEN Secret ingredient: Salt Island has been saving dishes since colonial times. Absolute Travel http://www.seasalt.com
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