Virtuoso Life - July/August 2008 - (Page 63) developed by Baron Bettino Ricasoli at his Castello di Brolio, sangiovese would make up the bulk of the blend, along with the darker red grape canaiolo and the white varieties trebbiano and malvasia. Ironically, chianti actually became a victim of its own success. The sangiovese grape can generate lots of fruit, and by the 1960s and 1970s, growers eager to cash in on chianti’s fame were doing little to discourage it from overproducing. Overcropping, along with increased quantities of white grapes in the blend, turned chianti into a cheap, uninspired product – a wine for the masses. Served from a straw-wrapped flask – called, perhaps appropriately, a fiasco – it became a staple at every local Italian spaghetti and pizza joint. By the early 1980s, as savvier wine drinkers began demanding higher quality, several of Tuscany’s best winemakers turned their backs on chianti (and on sangiovese) and began to produce more modern “super-Tuscan” wines made from French grapes such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot. “The After a facelift, the wine was ready to shine and the spotlight was aimed back in its direction. market demanded deeper, more complex wines,” explains Giovanni Folonari, whose family owns seven properties in Tuscany, including Nozzole in Chianti Classico and Conti Spalletti in Chianti Rùfina. “Chianti was not ready to change the rules, so a lot of us started making super-Tuscans. That was a shame, really, because the new wines had to be declassified [as vino da tavola, table wine], and chianti suffered from that.” In 1984, the rules for chianti were rewritten in order to salvage this important part of Italian wine heritage. The traditional Chianti Classico zone north of Siena was given its own DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), Italy’s top certification of origin. A few other important areas, such as Chianti Rùfina, east of Florence, were also singled out; wines from the periphery would continue to be generic chiantis. The white grape quotient was lowered, and – in a nod to the upstart producers of super-Tuscans – up to ten percent of nonindigenous grapes such as cabernet were permitted in the blend. The old raffiacovered bottle went the way of the lace doily as chianti voluntarily spiffed up its image. After this facelift, chianti was ready to shine and the spotlight was aimed back in its direction. Newer techniques instituted by a generation of internationally trained oenologists (celebrated globe-trotter Michel Rolland consults at Nozzole, for example) put a contemporary polish on the wines. Vintners reduced yields, harvested later, and aged chiantis in French oak barrels – treatment once reserved for super-Tuscans. Dream Destinations | Distinctive Hotels Pre- or post-cruise? Pre- or post-safari? Or simply visiting a dream destination. Whatever your reason, make the most of your stay. To complete your trip, add Travel Bound® private sightseeing and private transfers. per night from hotel Durban Port Elizabeth Nairobi Siena (Chianti) Prague Cape Town Venice Paris Bora Bora $140 ** 248 ** 265 ** 420 ** 431 ** 789 ** 1043 ** 1998 ** 2194 Royal (harbor-view rm.) · 5 stars Protea Marine · 4 stars Serena · 5 stars Palazzo Leopoldo (1-bedroom villa) · 4 stars U Prince ( junior suite) · 5 stars Mount Nelson (luxury rm.) · 5 stars Bauer (superior rm.) · 5 stars Plaza Athenée* (deluxe rm.) · 5 stars St. Regis (deluxe o'water villa) · 5 stars **Breakfast included; ranges from continental breakfast (Paris) to American breakfast (Nairobi, Siena, Venice) Prices are per room, per night based on double occupancy in a standard room, unless otherwise stated, at the lowest price during valid period: now through 12-15-08 (*Plaza Athenée is available only through 10-31-08). Prices include all taxes and service charges. Prices are subject to change. Hotels are subject to availability at the time of booking. Alternate travel dates, hotels and/or room types may be available at higher or lower rates. Contact your Virtuoso Travel Advisor for reservations.
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