Virtuoso Life - March/April 2009 - (Page 130) WANDERLUST CRUISE CALL Welcome to the Neighborhood Cast off for a cultural journey through Papua New Guinea. By RODERICK EIME F Tufi villagers don headdresses for a traditional performance. 130 VIRTUOSO LIFE lEEtIng shaDOws In thE unDERgROwth, thEy MOvE sIlEntly anD stealthily, occasionally stopping to check the progress of our canoes along the mangrove-lined creek. Smeared head to toe with volcanic mud and wearing a crown of leaves as camouflage, they stalk, monitoring our journey like the fabled masalei (forest spirits) of local legend. Suddenly, they leap out in spectacular fashion, halting our party with chilling cries. Saplings bounce off the sides of our canoes. As our party gasps in alarm, we realize that the traditional challenge, thankfully, is all show, put on for us by the villagers of Tufi, Papua New Guinea. Not long ago, they would greet strangers this way, in order to determine their purpose, whether friendly or hostile. Our good intent assumed, we are welcomed RODERICK EIME
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