Virtuoso Life - March/April 2009 - (Page 133)

large, ornate outriggers, expanding their influence with trade and diplomacy. Likewise, we employed the most relevant transport for our own exploration, the elegant Orion expedition yacht. Despite its modest size, just 110 yards long and carrying 106 passengers, Captain Steffen Friedrich insists the Orion is a ship – and an exquisite one at that. “My beautiful ship,” he extolls with a trademark twinkle in his eye, “welcomes you aboard. Please do not refer to her as a b-o-a-t, as she will become angry and make our journey uncomfortable.” My companions must have heeded the warning, as our trip proved anything but. We dined on lavish spreads of lobster, prawns, oysters, and delicate cuts of meat paired with top Australian wines, followed by musical performances and lectures in the theater. Unlike similar, more Spartan vessels in the region, the Orion comes complete with a gym, sauna, library, salon, boutique, and medical clinic – and at least three bars that I can remember. Staterooms feature marble bathrooms and televisions with DVD players, and there’s complimentary 24-hour room service. This level of opulence on the edge of civilization may seem foreign, but a hot shower and a crisp lager prove just the ticket after a day of steamy jungle treks, festive ceremonies, and educational interactions with Melanesians. Adventure purists and Kokoda Trail bushwalkers may aim to bunk down with all the wilderness can throw at them, but we experienced raw and unembellished culture, then retreated to hotel-style comfort at day’s end – exclusivity, I’m pleased to report, that doesn’t equate with haughty disregard for communities. ISOLAteD ISLAND LIfe COmeS WItH Exploring by Zodiac. certain privations. Basic medical and school supplies, for example, must make long journeys and pass through many hands, which is where expedition cruises come in. Support from the Orion’s staff and passengers has helped rebuild the storm-destroyed schoolhouse at Watam village, one of the communities near the Sepik River where dancers perform for every visit. Passengers are invited to bring spare luggage with inexpensive donations (refilling it with exquisite art, carvings, and souvenirs en route). Our expedition coordinator, Australianborn Justin Friend, has an abiding affection for the people of Papua New Guinea. His ability to secure exclusive experiences is largely thanks to his fluency in Tok Pisin – that, and the fact that he also submitted himself to an intimate Sepik initiation ceremony, pictures of which he passed around during the cruise to the great amusement of all. “I’m now a minor chief in Watam, and here are my new uncles, aunts, and cousins,” Friend says, his finger sweeping over the large gathering in the photograph. “Needless to say, my Christmas shopping bill has blown out somewhat!” At Watam, we’re welcomed almost as family. There’s juicy coconut and fresh fruit, and the lush grass is freshly cut, thanks to an Orion-donated lawn mower. Villagers perform an elaborate dance around a central dragon, much like a Chinese New Year celebration, with a train of stomping warriors hidden beneath the beast’s abdomen. When it comes time to leave, I clutch my trophy – a gorgeous carved ebony mask inlaid with mother-of-pearl – as I make my way to the landing, shaking the many outstretched hands. On the returning Zodiac, the hum of the outboard motor and the warm tropical sun loll me into a pleasant daydream. I’m ready for that beer! The Orion at Rabaul, where passengers can board helicopters to view active Mount Tavurvur. MARCH | APRIL 2009 133

Table of Contents Feed for the Digital Edition of Virtuoso Life - March/April 2009

Virtuoso Life - March/April 2009 Contents Editor’s Note Contributors Passport Bon Voyage Suite Talk City to Go Vanity Case Quick Escape Go Green What Matters Kauai Connection Life in the Slow Lane Down Under Australia High Spirits Tasting Notes Global Gourmet Well Traveled Great Outdoors Cuise Call Big Shot

Virtuoso Life - March/April 2009

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