Virtuoso Life - November/December 2012 - (Page 52)
MouTH of THe SouTH
Charleston’s laid-back Low Country dining scene speaks volumes.
By MaRgaRET LOFTUS PHOTOgRaPHy By PETER FRaNK EDWaRDS
here has lamb breast been all my life?” i
ponder as I savor a bite of the succulent cut, fragrant with cumin and strewn with chocolate cherry tomatoes, oil-cured olives, and pine nuts. With a nose-totail menu, an urban farmhouse look – reclaimed barn-wood walls, communal table, industrial stools – and indie rock thrumming in the background, this restaurant could easily be in a trendy food haven like Brooklyn, Portland, or San Francisco. Only I’m in Charleston, South Carolina – land of shrimp-and-grits and waiters who lay their y’alls on thick. Heather and Josh Keeler,
the couple behind Two Boroughs Larder, this Husk’s head barman cozy restaurant and local-goods purveyor and (right) Two Borin the up-and-coming Cannonboroughoughs Larder’s lamb. Elliotborough neighborhood, are part of a new wave that’s reaching deep into the Low Country’s scrappy agricultural heritage to reimagine Southern food. “Charleston is coming of age,” says Marc Collins, executive chef at city stalwart Circa 1886 and founder of the wildly successful Charleston Wine and Food Festival, which celebrates its eighth year February 28 through March 3, 2013. Indeed, a hum of creative energy
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