Virtuoso Life - September/October 2017 - 191
overblown. But standing in the Urn Tomb,
a space as vast and perfectly squared as an
auditorium, it's impossible to not feel stupefied by the crosshatch of diagonal slashes
that marks every laborious chisel strike.
"I've been guiding Petra for 23 years and
it never grows old," Dauod tells me from the
Urn Tomb, where the view over the cavespeckled cliffs makes me think Nabateans
might emerge at any moment. "It's tempting to think that it could change with all the
tourists. But the truth is, it's timeless."
That evening, we meet a young camel
driver who wears the kohl eyeliner that makes
Bedouin men look like Jack Sparrow and who
shepherds two animals, Zozo and Arianna.
Dusk is turning the Rose City to oxblood, and
a ride on one of the gangly beasts beckons
after the long day of walking.
"How much?" I ask the pirate nomad.
"Come. Tea," he says as he rocks back on
his heels in the sand and pulls a fire-blacked
kettle from his robes. "There's time for
everything." It's a statement steeped in
centuries of wisdom and peace.
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Terms, conditions, and exclusions apply. Plan(s) underwritten by BCS Insurance Company or Jefferson Insurance Company
depending on insured's state of residence. AGA Service Company is the licensed producer and administrator of this plan.