Virtuoso Life - November/December 2017 - 105
Hidden treasures: A private garden
behind Torcello's antiques shop.
grafted them, expanded this small vineyard,
and transferred some of the vines to Mazzorbo. After finishing its first vintage in 2010,
the Bisol family now produces 4,000 bottles
of this golden-hued wine each year. Each
sells for close to $200, and the bottle, made
in Murano with a 24-karat gold-leaf foil label
pounded by the last goldsmith in Venice, has
itself become a collector's item.
After a day of exploring Torcello, including a stop at the gardens of Ristorante Villa
600, I boat back to Mazzorbo for dinner at
Ristorante Venissa. I dine among the vines,
sipping a glass of Venissa wine and indulging in a meal of mantis shrimp, tortelloni in
a delicate clam broth, and a fillet of sea bass
paired with vegetables from the garden.
The service is intimate, the food precise
and inspired, the setting unlike any other
in all of Italy. Later, as I make my return
to Burano, I watch fishing boats motor to
front doors, nonne strolling arm in arm,
and kids playing soccer in the piazza. The
lights of Venice shine in the distance, but
they feel a world away.
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