Virtuoso Life - November/December 2017 - 62
On the Table
Clockwise from top
Bolenius, a 1662
Rembrandt at the
with his team at
Librije's Zusje, and
a salad grown onsite at Bolenius.
After simmering on Europe's back burner for years,
Amsterdam's fine-dining scene is ready to serve.
BY CHADNER NAVARRO PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIRJAM BLEEKER
V I RT U O S O L I F E
MSTERDAM HAS LONG SE-
duced travelers with gabled
canals, and arts institutions
worth hopping a plane for. Until recently, however, it hadn't found its
identity as a gourmet destination.
Forget - at least for a second - savory bitterballen (deep-fried meat
croquettes) and overflowing cones
of crisp frites to dip in mayonnaise.
Instead, consider Dutch wines, local caviar, and beef so tender it rivals Wagyu. "For a long time we kept
looking elsewhere for culinary inspiration," says Luc Kusters, the chef at
minimalist restaurant Bolenius and
a founding member of Dutch Cuisine, an organization that promotes
a sustainable and hyperlocal food
culture in the Netherlands. "Now
the new generation is looking to our
own soil and history."
But it isn't just inward reflection
that's sparked this fine-dining renaissance. Sidney Schutte, the chef
at Librije's Zusje, takes a more controversial stance: He claims that
there's not enough in the Dutch
kitchen to make up an entire cuisine