Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 138

Local Culture

TIP
Spaniards like to socialize over tapas
and drinks in the early evening, then
go for dinner later. "Plan a tapas tour
on your first or second night, so you
can dine a bit early (and get over jet
lag). Go from bar to bar with a guide
and try one dish at each place. On the
following nights, do as the locals do,
and dine around 8:30 or 9 PM. It's a
great way to experience the culture."
- Ginny Mabry, Virtuoso travel
advisor, Davidson, North Carolina

Clockwise from top left: La Bulla; Paula Felizón, cofounder of BarroAzul;
and an exhibit at Delimbo Gallery.

ham from acorn-fed pigs. Relaxing on high
stools at the wraparound marble bar, we
sampled paper-thin slivers of air-cured ham
along with glasses of fino, a pale, dry sherry.
The next stop was La Bulla, across from
the massive arched walls of the city's medieval Royal Dockyards, used as a set in the
HBO series Game of Thrones. Seated at a long
table next to a picture of a big red rooster,
we shared truffled artichokes and battered,
deep-fried shrimp, served in a soda glass.
La Brunilda Tapas, with a blue door and
a barely visible sign, stands on a sleepy side
street near the Museo de Bellas Artes. Its
ranking on various top-ten lists means tables fill quickly. One strategy: Plan on a late
lunch. We arrived half an hour before the
kitchen closed. A waiter patiently translated
the chalkboard menu, then put in our order -
salt cod fritters with pear aioli, and grilled
pork - leaving us enough time to snag bread
pudding with caramel sauce for dessert.
Studios and Sisters

THE NEIGHBORHOOD: MACARENA

PERFECT IMPERFECTION
Paula Felizón calls herself a "ceramics romantic." Working in her studio, BarroAzul
(named for the blue clay taken from the Guadalquivir River), she is one of the few remaining artisans in Triana, a riverside neighborhood that was once the center of Seville's
ceramics industry.
Moorish designs influenced the colorful glazed tiles found in courtyards, churches,
and street-corner shrines throughout the city. Each was hand-painted, using techniques
Felizón teaches during two-hour classes. (Your travel advisor can arrange a class through
Valesa Cultural Services.)
I learned a method called cuerda seca, used centuries ago to create tiles with geometric patterns. Felizón demonstrated how to trace a design onto a blank tile, outline it in
heavy black pencil, then use a syringe to fill in the spaces with colored glaze. My finished
work - a small square inlaid with yellow stars on a blue background - isn't perfect, but
that's the point. It's one of a kind.

138

V I RT U O S O L I F E

In the city's northeast, artists' studios, cafés, and restaurants with local followings
are tucked into courtyards and side streets.
Landmark sites include La Feria, one of the
city's oldest food markets, and the Basílica
de la Macarena, honoring the Macarena de
la Esperanza ("Our Lady of Hope of Macarena"; the 1990s dance hit, incidentally, was
about a Sevillian woman named for her).
At the Convento de Santa Paula, cloistered nuns support themselves by selling
homemade jams and turrón, an almond nougat candy flavored with lemon, raspberry, or
cinnamon. Around the corner in the Plaza
del Pelícano, artists welcome visitors into



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018

Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018
Contents
Editor’s Note
Contributors
The Virtuoso Life
Virtuoso Reports
Passport
Bon Voyage
Suite Talk
Inspired By
City to Go
Interview
Bottle Service
On the Table
Dossier
In My Bag
Where Next
No Hurry at All
A Mediterranean Postcard
Faster, Bigger, Smarter, Bolder
Out & About
Local Culture
Souvenir
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Intro
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Cover2
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 1
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 2
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 3
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 4
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 5
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 6
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 7
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 8
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 9
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Contents
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 11
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 12
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 13
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Editor’s Note
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 15
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 16
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 17
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Contributors
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 19
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 20
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 21
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - The Virtuoso Life
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 23
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 24
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 25
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Virtuoso Reports
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 27
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 28
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 29
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 30
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 31
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 32
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 33
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 34
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Passport
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 36
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 37
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 38
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 39
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 40
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 41
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 42
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 43
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 44
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 45
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 46
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 47
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 48
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 49
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Bon Voyage
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 51
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Suite Talk
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 53
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 54
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 55
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Inspired By
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 57
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 58
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - City to Go
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 60
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 61
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 62
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 63
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Interview
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 65
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 66
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 67
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 68
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Bottle Service
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 70
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 71
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - On the Table
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 73
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 74
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 75
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 76
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 77
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 78
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 79
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Dossier
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 81
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - In My Bag
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 83
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 84
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 85
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Where Next
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 87
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 88
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 89
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 90
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 91
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 92
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 93
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 94
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 95
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 96
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 97
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - No Hurry at All
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 99
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 100
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 101
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 102
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 103
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 104
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 105
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 106
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 107
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - A Mediterranean Postcard
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 109
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 110
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 111
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 112
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 113
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 114
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 115
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 116
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 117
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 118
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Faster, Bigger, Smarter, Bolder
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 120
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 121
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 122
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 123
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 124
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 125
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 126
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 127
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Out & About
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 129
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 130
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 131
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 132
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 133
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Local Culture
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 135
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 136
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 137
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 138
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 139
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 140
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - 141
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Souvenir
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Cover3
Virtuoso Life - January/February 2018 - Cover4
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20181112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20180910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/shoppingstyle
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20180708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20180506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20180304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20180102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20171112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20170910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20170708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20170506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20170304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20170102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20161112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20160910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20160708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20160506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20160304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20160102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20151112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20150910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20150708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20150506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20150304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20150102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20141112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20140910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20140708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20140506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20140304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20140102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20131112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20130910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20130708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20130506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20130304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20130102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20121112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20120910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/virgingalactic
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20120708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20120506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20120304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20120102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20111112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20110910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20110708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20110506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20110304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20110102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20101112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20100910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20100708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20100506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20100304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20100102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20091112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090304_v2
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200811
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200809
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200807
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200805
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200803
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200801
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200711
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200709
http://www.nxtbookMEDIA.com