Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 108

Clockwise from top: Classic
conveyance, Aroma's mackerel
confit with baby vegetables, and
centuries-old La Campana.

Top tables
 Al Moro: An old-school find near Trevi Fountain, wood-paneled Al Moro specializes in osso buco and
other classics and has an excellent wine list. Vicolo delle Bollette 13; ristorantealmororoma.com.

 Aroma: Palazzo Manfredi's dreamy rooftop restaurant pairs quintessential Roman dishes with colossal
views. Via Labicana 125; aromarestaurant.it.

La Campana: Steps from the Tiber River, this open-plan trattoria with a 500-year history serves delicious
antipasti, pasta, and meats. Vicolo della Campana 18; ristorantelacampana.com.



L'Osteria de Memmo: Shh! Don't tell the tourists. Locals full of personality love this hidden spot in the old
part of town for cacio e pepe, veal, and atmosphere. Via dei Soldati 22/23; osteriadememmo.it.



108

V I RT U O S O L I F E

By "they," I mean the dinner party of 18
Americans in front of you at the "authentic" trattoria your guidebook mentioned.
Here's how to avoid that gridlock.
Eat late, first of all. Romans lunch
between 1:30 and 3 pm and eat dinner no
earlier than 8. La Campana is an untouristy favorite not far from Piazza Navona.
The menu doesn't come in four languages
or have laminated color photos, and the
waiters can be gruff (at first), but the
tonnarelli cacio e pepe - the classic Roman
pasta specialty with a sauce of cheese and
black pepper - is outstanding, and the
antipasti table is a meal unto itself. "Go
for lunch on the weekend and you'll see
families who've had the same table for
generations," King says. Dinner reservations are a must.
Getting (nearly) lost helps as well.
L'Osteria de Memmo, also in the old city
center, is hidden on an obscure side street
that helps keep the place a secret. Specialties include roasted suckling pig and
cacio e pepe, but take heed: The portions
are enormous. Closer to Trevi Fountain,
family-run Al Moro is an old standby
packed with charismatic neighborhood
types - if you don't go too early for dinner. Waitstaff prepare the spaghetti Al
Moro (carbonara, essentially) tableside,
delicately mixing the egg in upon presentation. You won't get that at the nearby
ristorante turistico.
Even places you'd think would be
overrun can feel like escapes if you time
things right. My wife and I sipped Aperol
spritzes for an hour at dusk at a café table
opposite the Pantheon, our son happily
mesmerized by the human parade passing through Piazza della Rotonda. On
Palazzo Manfredi's rooftop overlooking
the Colosseum, Aroma is popular with
out-of-towners, but even locals can't
resist the backdrop. King was there for a
late lunch a few years ago and noticed the
mayor of Rome entertaining the mayor
of London. "Guess which mayor knew the
seat to take for the best view in the entire
city?" King asks. One guess, and it wasn't
the mayor of London. I have the table
memorized for our next visit, though I
must say, we did pretty well ourselves, in
a veni, vidi, vici sort of way.



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018

Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018
Contents
Editor’s Note
Contributors
The Virtuoso Life
Passport
Bon Voyage
Suite Talk
Inspired By
City to Go
Seat at the Bar
On the Table
Style & Design
Well Traveled
Port of Call
Greater Good
Dossier
In My Bag
My Town
When in Rome
Noodle on This
Interview
Need to Know
Souvenir
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Intro
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Cover2
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 1
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 2
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 3
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 4
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 5
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 6
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 7
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Contents
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 9
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 10
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 11
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Editor’s Note
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 13
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 14
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 15
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Contributors
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 17
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 18
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 19
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - The Virtuoso Life
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 21
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 22
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 23
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 24
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 25
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 26
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Passport
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 28
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 29
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 30
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 31
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 32
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 33
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 34
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 35
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 36
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 37
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Bon Voyage
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 39
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Suite Talk
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 41
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 42
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 43
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 44
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 45
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 46
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 47
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Inspired By
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 49
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - City to Go
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 51
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 52
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 53
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 54
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 55
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Seat at the Bar
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 57
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 58
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 59
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - On the Table
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 61
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 62
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 63
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Style & Design
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 65
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 66
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 67
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 68
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 69
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Well Traveled
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 71
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 72
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 73
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Port of Call
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 75
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 76
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 77
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 78
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 79
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Greater Good
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 81
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 82
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 83
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Dossier
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 85
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - In My Bag
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 87
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - My Town
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 89
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 90
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 91
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 92
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 93
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 94
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 95
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 96
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 97
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 98
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 99
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 100
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 101
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - When in Rome
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 103
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 104
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 105
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 106
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 107
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 108
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 109
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Noodle on This
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 111
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 112
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 113
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 114
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 115
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 116
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 117
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 118
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 119
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Interview
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 121
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Need to Know
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 123
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 124
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 125
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 126
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 127
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Souvenir
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Cover3
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Cover4
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