Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 61

Italy's Prized Ham

CULATELLO DI ZIBELLO
"Modern" is hardly the word that comes
to mind when you're surrounded by the
funk of 5,000 aging hams in a fourteenthcentury cellar. At least, until you climb the
stairs out of the basement and enter a grand
glass room that greets diners with brilliant
sunshine and tablet-toting servers. Here,
less than two hours northwest of Bologna in
the medieval village of Polesine Parmense,
is Antica Corte Pallavicina, the embodiment of contemporary Emilia-Romagna,
where food is king, but tradition is queen.
Some diners who sit at chef Massimo Spigaroli's crisp-white-clothed tables are oblivious to the culinary magic happening below:
The cellar walls harbor molds that inoculate
the hunks of meat, just as they have since the
Pallavicino marquesses cured the same Culatello di Zibello here 700 years ago. There's
no climate control, just windows that open to
let in the Po River valley's lowland fog. (The
humidity is one of many factors that differentiate Culatello di Zibello from its famous

sibling, Prosciutto di Parma.)
The restaurant incorporates the salumeria's premier product into its otherwise
thoroughly modern menu. Nearly everyone
starts their meal with a trio of Culatelli di
Zibello, before moving on, say, to dumplings
stuffed with tomatoes and burrata cheese
in an anchovy sauce, courses of frog legs
or poplar-smoked black pork, and, for dessert, domes of white chocolate with lemon
centers. But the culatello, more tender and
intense than prosciutto, remains the star.
The taste of the fog comes out as a gentle
smokiness, a flavor that can be produced in
only eight local towns, so that Culatello di
Zibello is rarely exported and can even be
difficult to find outside the area.
The Real Deal

TRADITIONAL BALSAMIC VINEGAR OF MODENA
Balsamic vinegar seems ubiquitous - until
you realize that much of what's found on
grocery shelves isn't the original. The DOPcertified stuff comes in a 100-milliliter
container designed by Giorgetto Giugiaro -

Lunchtime
in Bologna.

TIP
"Just outside Parma,
travelers can visit the Consorzio
Produttori Latte Parma to watch
cheesemakers transform curd into
wonderful Parmigiano-Reggiano. It's
aged for well over a year before it's
ready to be tasted by the public."
- Janet McLaughlin, Virtuoso travel
advisor, Cincinnati, Ohio

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Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018

Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018
Contents
Editor’s Note
Contributors
The Virtuoso Life
Passport
Bon Voyage
Suite Talk
Inspired By
City to Go
Seat at the Bar
On the Table
Style & Design
Well Traveled
Port of Call
Greater Good
Dossier
In My Bag
My Town
When in Rome
Noodle on This
Interview
Need to Know
Souvenir
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Intro
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Cover2
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 1
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 2
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 3
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 4
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 5
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 6
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 7
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Contents
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 9
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 10
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 11
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Editor’s Note
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 13
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 14
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 15
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Contributors
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 17
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 18
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 19
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - The Virtuoso Life
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 21
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 22
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 23
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 24
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 25
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 26
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Passport
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 28
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 29
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 30
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 31
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 32
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 33
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 34
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 35
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 36
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 37
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Bon Voyage
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 39
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Suite Talk
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 41
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 42
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 43
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 44
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 45
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 46
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 47
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Inspired By
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 49
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - City to Go
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 51
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 52
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 53
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 54
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 55
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Seat at the Bar
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 57
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 58
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 59
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - On the Table
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 61
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 62
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 63
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Style & Design
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 65
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 66
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 67
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 68
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 69
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Well Traveled
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 71
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 72
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 73
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Port of Call
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 75
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 76
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 77
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 78
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 79
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Greater Good
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 81
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 82
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 83
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Dossier
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 85
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - In My Bag
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 87
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - My Town
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 89
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 90
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 91
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 92
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 93
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 94
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 95
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 96
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 97
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 98
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 99
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 100
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 101
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - When in Rome
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 103
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 104
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 105
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 106
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 107
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 108
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 109
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Noodle on This
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 111
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 112
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 113
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 114
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 115
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 116
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 117
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 118
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 119
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Interview
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 121
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Need to Know
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 123
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 124
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 125
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 126
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 127
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Souvenir
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Cover3
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Cover4
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