Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 62

On the Table

Like Culatello di Zibello, traditional balsamic is made without climate
control; seasonal temperature changes contribute to the product's flavor.
famous for his work with Ferrari - in 1988,
when the consortium systemized the rules
for making it. It's labeled "Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena," not "Balsamic
Vinegar of Modena," and the sole ingredient is grape juice. (Nontraditional versions blend grape juice with various wine
vinegars.) To be certified, along with the
region's only other DOP-certified vinegar,
from Reggio Emilia, it must be made using
the original method, unchanged for centuries. Visitors can see this process in play in
barrels dating from 1512 that Davide Lonardi still uses at Villa San Donnino in Modena,
45 minutes northwest of Bologna.
Lonardi, one of about 125 local producers, offers travelers the chance to peer into
the attic of his 1911 villa and wander among
the acres of grapevines in front before they
stop in the shop to taste his vinegar - alone,
over cheese, or, surprisingly, on ice cream.
Like Culatello di Zibello, traditional balsamic is made without climate control; seasonal temperature changes contribute to
the product's flavor. Under one of Villa San
Donnino's sixteenth-century barrels, a ceramic bowl catches drips falling through the
cracks of the aging wood.

62

V I RT U O S O L I F E

Things are a bit sleeker - impeccably so -
eight miles away at Opera 02, a winery, restaurant, farm-stay, and acetaia (balsamic
producer). There, few of the barrels are older than the fresh-faced proprietor, 36-yearold Mattia Montanari, even though the
production process - boiling down the
grape juice, filling the barrels, then moving
the aging product from the largest container to the smallest - takes a minimum of 12
years. There's no dust or dripping vinegar
here. A pristine glass wall separates the
air-conditioned lobby from the required
uncontrolled climate of the vinegar loft,
where gleaming lights and uniform batteries of casks give off a "Lamborghini of vinegars" impression.
The vinegars of both acetaie have a complex, round sweetness without the sharpness and cloying caramel notes of the other
versions on U.S. shelves. As different from
their counterparts as fine china is from paper plates, they accomplish the same thing,
but with infinitely more style and finesse.
A Classic, Elevated

PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
Of all Emilia-Romagna's traditional foods,

Parmigiano-Reggiano, the "king of cheese,"
is perhaps the most famous. Still, the delicacy's sacrosanct status has left it a bit behind
the times. While it shows up on nearly every
menu in Bologna, the presentation rarely
changes: a few crumbles, perhaps drizzled
with vinegar. When Antica Osteria Le Mura
opened in the city last year, it hoped to buck
that practice. Rather than outright rejecting
the city's culinary classics (green lasagna,
rich ragù, tortellini in broth), Le Mura split
its menu in two: classic dishes on the left, creative reinterpretations on the right. Diners
looking for the famous and familiar can sit at
the narrow wine bar or at wooden tables and
order their Parmigiano on the salumi board.
But those looking to try something new
will find it in an elaborate asparagus-andParmigiano-Reggiano flan topped with peas
and lemon, as bright as the sun shining on the
contemporary patio out front.
Le Mura's dual setup might hardly be
groundbreaking in many places, but in a
part of the world so entrenched - even legally so - in tradition, these baby steps to
move Culatello di Zibello, balsamic vinegar,
and Parmigiano-Reggiano into the modern
world are a pretty big deal.



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018

Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018
Contents
Editor’s Note
Contributors
The Virtuoso Life
Passport
Bon Voyage
Suite Talk
Inspired By
City to Go
Seat at the Bar
On the Table
Style & Design
Well Traveled
Port of Call
Greater Good
Dossier
In My Bag
My Town
When in Rome
Noodle on This
Interview
Need to Know
Souvenir
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Intro
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Cover2
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 1
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 2
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 3
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 4
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 5
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 6
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 7
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Contents
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 9
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 10
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 11
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Editor’s Note
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 13
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 14
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 15
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Contributors
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 17
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 18
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 19
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - The Virtuoso Life
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 21
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 22
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 23
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 24
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 25
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 26
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Passport
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 28
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 29
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 30
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 31
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 32
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 33
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 34
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 35
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 36
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 37
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Bon Voyage
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 39
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Suite Talk
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 41
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 42
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 43
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 44
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 45
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 46
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 47
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Inspired By
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 49
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - City to Go
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 51
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 52
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 53
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 54
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 55
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Seat at the Bar
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 57
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 58
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 59
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - On the Table
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 61
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 62
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 63
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Style & Design
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 65
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 66
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 67
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 68
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 69
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Well Traveled
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 71
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 72
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 73
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Port of Call
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 75
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 76
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 77
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 78
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 79
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Greater Good
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 81
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 82
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 83
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Dossier
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 85
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - In My Bag
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 87
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - My Town
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 89
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 90
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 91
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 92
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 93
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 94
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 95
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 96
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 97
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 98
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 99
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 100
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 101
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - When in Rome
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 103
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 104
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 105
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 106
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 107
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 108
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 109
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Noodle on This
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 111
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 112
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 113
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 114
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 115
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 116
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 117
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 118
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 119
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Interview
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 121
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Need to Know
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 123
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 124
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 125
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 126
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 127
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Souvenir
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Cover3
Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - Cover4
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20181112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20180910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/shoppingstyle
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20180708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20180506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20180304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20180102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20171112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20170910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20170708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20170506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20170304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20170102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20161112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20160910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20160708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20160506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20160304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20160102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20151112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20150910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20150708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20150506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20150304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20150102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20141112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20140910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20140708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20140506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20140304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20140102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20131112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20130910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20130708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20130506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20130304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20130102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20121112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20120910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/virgingalactic
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20120708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20120506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20120304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20120102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20111112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20110910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20110708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20110506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20110304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20110102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20101112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20100910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20100708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20100506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20100304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20100102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20091112
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090910
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090708
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090506
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090304_v2
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090304
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/20090102
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200811
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200809
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200807
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200805
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200803
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200801
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200711
http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/virtuosolife/200709
http://www.nxtbookMEDIA.com