Virtuoso Life - March/April 2018 - 74
Port of Call Madeira in Bloom Gardens, sea cliffs, and strong wine and brandy fortify days in Funchal. BY CHADNER NAVARRO PHOTOGRAPHY BY NANNA DÍS A Clockwise from left: The Madeira Botanical Garden above Funchal, restaurant O Lagar, and aging barrels at Blandy's Wine Lodge. 74 V I RT U O S O L I F E T ROUGHLY 290 SQUARE MILES, Madeira, the largest of the islands in the Portuguese archipelago of the same name, packs in black beaches, banana groves, and cherry and apple orchards thriving in a yearround subtropical climate, and its capital, Funchal, a glorious combination of European architecture, cobbled streets, rock pools, and fragrant garden after fragrant garden. Homages to its favorite son, soccer superstar Cristiano Ronaldo, abound - a statue here, a museum there, a hotel, and the airport that now sports his name. Long a favorite of European honeymooners and pensioners, this volcanic speck 500 miles off the coast of Morocco has gained favor with cruisers and other travelers drawn to its burgeoning art scene, outdoor adventures ranging from big-wave surfing and snorkeling with dolphins to scenic waterfall hikes, and rustic regional cuisine distinct from the cod-heavy kitchens of mainland Portugal. Cruise ships dock in Funchal, a city of about 100,000 residents, which dates to the 1400s and takes its name from fields of wild fennel that greeted settlers.