Virtuoso Life - May/June 2018 - 64
On the Table
Clockwise from left: Copenhagen harbor traffic, Kaptajn's squid with dill and gooseberry, Apollo Bar head chef Riccardo Giraldo, and Brus.
Noma on his résumé. Meanwhile, Duedam
oversees the bar's superb selection of natural wines, and Sune Rosforth, the influential
wine importer of Rosforth & Rosforth, is an
owner. Havnegade 53A, kld.; denvandrette.dk.
KAPTAJN: One of Copenhagen's newest spots
for natural wine opened in February as a
spacious big brother to the lauded wine
bar Ancestrale. On the menu, biodynamic
and organic varietals are paired with handdived Norwegian scallops and plates of
bleak-fish roe with crème fraîche and potato chips. "For their opening, they had a
full barrel of wine from Sébastien Riffault in
V I RT U O S O L I F E
Sancerre to pour for their thirsty friends,"
Sune Rosforth says. Sortedam Dossering 45A;
SANCHEZ: Ask local chefs for a dining recommendation and they'll often point to
the full-service establishment of Rosio
Sanchez. She was the pastry chef at Noma
before striking out on her own in 2015, opening her takeaway taqueria, Hija de Sanchez,
at the popular food market Torvehallerne.
A small location in the city's meatpacking
district followed in 2016. And in December
2017, the Mexican American chef debuted
Sanchez, with five-course tasting menus
featuring habanero oysters, soft-shellcrab tacos, smoked-salmon tostadas, and
chocolate-licorice paletas. "I wanted to have
the space to be able to host people for more
of a dining experience with items that are
more than tacos," Sanchez says. Istedgade 60;
BÆST: What does Rosio Sanchez herself recommend? Sunday dinner at this locavore
Italian pizzeria from Michelin-starred chef
and fellow Noma alumnus Christian Puglisi.
Warmed by a blazing pizza oven imported
from Naples, the rustic Nørrebro restaurant
delivers platters of raw-milk burrata with