Virtuoso Life - May/June 2018 - 66
On the Table
house-made charcuterie, and wood-fired
pizzas draped with silky slices of mortadella. Guldbergsgade 29; baest.dk.
APOLLO BAR & KANTINE: Elevating the city's
brunch options, this new restaurant at
contemporary art exhibition space Kunsthal Charlottenborg is the latest hit from
chef Frederik Bille Brahe, a fashion-crowd
favorite with a penchant for Instagrammable plates, including a luscious blueberryricotta toast, and picture-perfect locales,
such as his trendy Café Atelier September.
Charlottenborg, Nyhavn 2; apollobar.dk.
BRUS: Even local craft breweries bolster
Copenhagen's culinary credentials. Most
impressive may be this sprawling, Scandichic brewpub opened in 2016 by the awardwinning brewery To Øl. Instead of pub
grub, the beer bar serves fermented fries
and Szechuan-spiced ribs to pair with a
sour ale, hazy IPA, or cocktails with housemade tonic water. "With Brus we have the
opportunity to brew super-small batches,
experiment a lot, follow the brewing processes closely, and, most importantly, serve
super-fresh beers to the crowd," says Louise
Norup Hellener of To Øl, who directs craft
beer connoisseurs to Mikkeller & Friends,
Warpigs, Himmeriget, or the Dispensary
for more great local brews. Guldbergsgade
RESTAURANT PALÆGADE: On weekdays the dining room at Palægade fills with lunching
colleagues and multigenerational families,
all tended to by the restaurant's gregarious,
ginger-haired proprietor, Simon Olesen.
"We want to carry on the tradition of the
old-fashioned smørrebrød," says Olesen,
a sommelier and former general manager
of Restaurant Schønnemann, a well-respected address for the classic open-faced
Danish sandwich since 1877. Opened in
2016, Palægade doesn't yet have the history to justify a traditional smørrebrød establishment's portrait of the queen on the
wall, Olesen jokes, but the stylish, modern
restaurant still nods to tradition, with anise-scented aquavit accompanying classic
smørrebrød variations - pickled herring,
house-smoked salmon, creamy chicken salad - composed of fresh seafood and meat,
V I RT U O S O L I F E
Clockwise from top left: Den Vandrette refreshments; Palægade's turbot with beef, peas,
parsley, and fried onion; something brewing at Brus; and Bæst's star attraction.
Opposite: A freewheeling Copenhagen summer scene.