Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 68

Out & About
reclining seats under glass-domed ceilings offer 360-degree views. Below, locally
sourced, multicourse breakfasts and lunches (don't skip anything with blueberries) are
served on white tablecloths. The open-air
platform at the back of the car offers the simple pleasure of mountain air and warm sun.
There are no sleeper cars, and that's a
good thing. This isn't scenery you want to
pass through with your eyes closed. The
train stops for stays at spectacular hotels
at the end of each day, giving passengers
a chance to stretch their legs and explore
more via boots, bikes, and boats.
Based in Vancouver, the Rocky Mountaineer runs two- to seven-day routes to Alberta
either east through Kamloops to Banff, or
north and then east through Whistler and
Quesnel to Jasper. Another route, south to
Seattle, hugs the coast and the Puget Sound
shoreline. (All routes run back to Vancouver
as well.) Guests hail from around the world,
but my car features many travelers from
Commonwealth countries, including several
couples celebrating special events. English
newlyweds on honeymoon kicked off our
journey with the ceremonial sounding of
the whistle, and we'll toast a pair celebrating
their 65th anniversary before we're finished.
THE GRANDEUR AMPS UP WITH THE AL-

titude as we reverse engineer the route of
nineteenth-century explorers. We climb
from wide-open agricultural lands outside
Vancouver through the narrowing canyons
of the Fraser Valley (clinching tight at Hell's
Gate), across desert and among strange rock
spires known as hoodoos, until, in dramatic
fashion toward the end of the second day, we
plunge into the dark heart of two mountains
via a pair of 1907 tunnels that spiral through
granite. A stupendous engineering effort
reduced the once-harrowing grade. On the
other side, Banff National Park reveals its
Rocky Mountain glory in twilight.
After a night of downy comfort at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and a morning
watching the Victoria Glacier trade its dark
mantle for purple, then pink, then white, we
board the motor coach to Jasper. The promise of the famously picturesque Icefields
Parkway - and a chance to walk on (and drink
from) the Athabasca Glacier - mitigates
some regrets over leaving the train and its

68

V I RT U O S O L I F E

Clockwise from top left: Pre-journey selfies in Kamloops, a window on wildlife,
host Ben Direen, and a locally sourced breakfast on board.

charms behind. The coach takes us past a
mammoth ice field that feeds three oceans,
and among iridescent lakes and changeable
rivers to deposit me, like glacial till, along
the shores of Lac Beauvert at the Fairmont
Jasper Park Lodge.
Here, I join a group around a campfire set
among cabins. Classic red-and-black plaid
blankets keep off the evening chill. It's a
clear night, and the world's second-largest
Dark Sky Preserve offers a star-packed view.
Serenaded by bugling elks, we spy ghostly

white forms in the sky. It's the boundary of
the northern lights. The full radiant spectrum of the aurora borealis doesn't quite
reach the lodge tonight (although it does on
many others).
Before I can register disappointment,
a six-point bull steps into the beam of my
neighbor's flashlight. Everyone takes a deep
breath. For no good reason, except the example of the past three days and the excellent Okanagan Valley red we've been sipping
all night, I wave at him.



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018

Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018
Contents
Editor’s Note
Contributors
The Virtuoso Life
Passport
Bon Voyage
Suite Talk
Inspired By
City to Go
Interview
Seat at the Bar
On the Table
Out & About
In My Bag
Be Right Back
Cuba Calling
Insiders’ Amsterdam
Lens on the World
Travel for Good
First Person
Need to Know
Souvenir
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Intro
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Cover2
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 1
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 2
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 3
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 4
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 5
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 6
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 7
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Contents
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 9
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 10
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 11
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Editor’s Note
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 13
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 14
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 15
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Contributors
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 17
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 18
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 19
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - The Virtuoso Life
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 21
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 22
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 23
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 24
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 25
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 26
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Passport
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 28
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 29
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 30
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 31
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 32
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 33
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 34
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 35
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 36
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 37
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Bon Voyage
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 39
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 40
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 41
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Suite Talk
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 43
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 44
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 45
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 46
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 47
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Inspired By
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 49
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - City to Go
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 51
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 52
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 53
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Interview
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 55
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Seat at the Bar
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 57
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 58
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 59
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - On the Table
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 61
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 62
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 63
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 64
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 65
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Out & About
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 67
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 68
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 69
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 70
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 71
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 72
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 73
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - In My Bag
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 75
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 76
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Be Right Back
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 78
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 79
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 80
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 81
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 82
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 83
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 84
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 85
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 86
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 87
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Cuba Calling
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 89
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 90
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 91
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 92
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 93
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 94
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 95
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 96
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 97
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Insiders’ Amsterdam
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 99
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 100
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 101
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 102
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 103
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 104
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 105
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Lens on the World
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 107
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 108
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 109
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 110
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 111
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 112
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Travel for Good
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 114
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 115
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 116
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 117
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 118
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 119
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 120
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 121
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 122
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 123
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - First Person
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 125
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 126
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 127
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Need to Know
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 129
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 130
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - 131
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Souvenir
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Cover3
Virtuoso Life - July/August 2018 - Cover4
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