Wine and Spirits - December 2011 - (Page 30)
BREAKING
By Joshua Greene
THE MOLD French Cheeses
for Vintage Port
Chantal Girerd opened the cheese cave at Artisanal Bistro ten years ago this past April. Chef Terrance Brennan
and his fromager at Picholine, Max McCalman, had built a Parisian bistro on the site, hoping to give McCalman a place for everything cheese, from gougères and fondues to French onion soup and classic macaroni and cheese. McCalman set out to develop the role of the affineur in New York, selecting artisanal producers from around the world and then aging their cheeses to serve at peak ripeness. That’s where Girerd comes in. A native of France’s Haut Savoie, she can tell by a touch when an Epoisses is reaching the best moment. While other credentialled experts at Artisanal Bistro have come and gone, Girerd has been my go-to fromager for years, along with one of her protègès, Charles Mahal. Recently I asked Girerd and Mahal to select a range of French cheeses to match three ages of Vintage Port: A youthful Fonseca 2009, a powerful Graham’s 2003 and a mature Ramos Pinto 1994. We agreed on one ground rule: nothing too similar to the standards for Vintage Port, Stilton and Portugal’s Queijo de Serra. As I decanted the Ports in their cheese cave, Mahal described how he’d gone back through his notes to find some non-traditional pairings. Then we set out to find the most delicious matches for each of the Ports.
Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Wine and Spirits - December 2011
Wine and Spirits - December 2011
Editor’s Note
Happenings
Contents
Fined & Filtered Luke Sykora on Napa's Latest Vintages; Wine Manga Hits Our Stores
Spirits: Winter's New Must-Haves from Lou Bustamante
Bordeaux on the Down Low
Post-Modern Barolo
Coombsville Rising
Breaking the Mold
Where’s the Beef?
Extreme Values
Tastings Overview
Champagne
American Cabernet & Blends
Barolo & Barbaresco
Rioja
German Riesling
American Wines
Imported Wines
Champagne’s Warming Trend
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