Meat&Poultry -- May 2014 - Marel4

B

ruce Aidells knows a thing or

time when a healthy alternative to tra-

adds. "This isn't new news; I started

two about sausage. A world-re-

ditional sausage was demanded. And a

making poultry sausage in 1986 and

nown chef and food writer, Aidells

sustained demand for chicken sausage

I obviously built a pretty big company

owes much of the notoriety and culi-

has spawned technology that preserves

based on that."

nary fame he enjoys today to the sau-

the artisan aspect of sausage making

While the demand has been sus-

sage company bearing his name and

that still make chefs like Aidells tick.

tained for decades, the reason and

face on the label, which he founded in

Mass production, he contends,

motivation behind that demand has

1983 and later sold in 2002. Aidells,

shouldn't come at the expense of qual-

evolved with the times. There is still

the chef, has a unique perspective on

ity. He still espouses the importance

a perception that chicken sausage is

the sausage segment.

of formulations and not compromis-

a healthier alternative to pork-based,

"I'm not just a guy who owned a

ing on developing memorable flavors

traditional offerings, but other factors

sausage company; I am a chef," he

using ingredients that have a history

play a role among today's consumers.

says. "Sausage was just another reci-

of working well together. A compro-

At white tablecloth restaurants,

pe, frankly. It put a lot of money in my

mised alternative too often results in

poultry sausage is not uncommon on

pocket, but it wasn't all I could do."

sausage that tastes like ham or has a

menus, as Aidells' wife, Chef Nancy

He began tinkering with spice

hot-dog flavor. He insists there is no

Oakes, would attest. Oakes, co-own-

blends and mixing them with chicken

reason to sacrifice the artisanship as-

er of San Francisco's Boulevard Res-

sausage in his kitchen all those years

pect of chicken-sausage production.

taurant, still utilizes traditional pork

ago, never imagining that his passion

And the demand he saw in the 1980s

sausage in dishes using high-end heri-

would one day be rewarded in spades.

still exists today. "The art is in find-

tage breeds, but has also taken poultry

That company, still marketed using

ing that balance," he says.

sausage to the next level. Using duck

his name and face, traded hands again

Aidells doesn't deny the double-

meat, for example, is a newer trend

in 2011, when Sara Lee, now known

digit annual growth and increasing

that offers a new twist on poultry sau-

as Hillshire Brands, acquired it for

demand in the chicken-sausage seg-

sage, as does sourcing specialized spe-

$87 million.

ment is alive and well. "Chicken is

cies, such as guinea fowl.

When he began crafting artisan,

perceived as being healthy and has

The real opportunity in today's

chicken-based sausage, he recalls it

been for years. I think that perception

market for chicken sausage, accord-

was then a novelty that has since be-

is still out there," he says.

ing to Aidells, is among casual-dining

come ubiquitous. The growth in this

"That growth is consistent with

foodservice chains, where many future

segment, which most agree came at a

what Aidells has had historically," he

chefs and restaurant operators work

SOMETHING to
CLUCK ABOUT
Chicken sausage evolves as a menu mainstay at foodservice
4

* Sausage Technology
Meat&Poultry -- May 2014

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Meat&Poultry -- May 2014
