Culinology - June 2018 - 19

L

ong before refrigeration, fermentation
was used as a means to extend the
shelf life of perishable foods. Nomadic tribes
would fill sheepskin backpacks with milk and
microbial-loaded grains, which fermented the
lactose into lactic acid, producing a satiating
drinkable yogurt to nourish during their journeys. Roman chefs would dry, ferment and
smoke premium meats to ensure availability
to the emperor during the winter months. And
Koreans relied on fermentation to preserve
vegetables for consumption after the harvest.
Today, while fermentation still preserves
foods, consumers enjoy fermented foods for
other reasons, most notably for wellness benefits and flavor adventure. Chefs have learned
that incorporating fermented ingredients into
prepared foods adds an extra dimension to
flavor, one not attainable by any other means.
Fermented ingredients also carry a healthy
halo, and health sells these days.

Unlocking probiotic flavor
Chefs are getting funky with their food,
experimenting with a variety of fermented
ingredients to add complex flavors that add
personality to the menu. Ryan McIlwraith,
executive chef, The Absinthe Group, San
Francisco, said, "For me, fermented ingredients bring 'pickled' flavors to dishes without
the overpowering flavor of vinegar."
Many of his signature dishes include the
same ingredient prepared two ways, one of
which is fermented. At Bellota, for example,
there's a hot tapas plate that combines roasted Brussels sprouts with fermented Brussels
sprouts, and a stewed dish containing fermented cabbage and charred cabbage. 
"At Barcino, we created a sauce for our raw
Hamachi made from fermented tomatillos,"
Mr. McIlwraith said. "For that dish, we blend
the tomatillos with some of the fermenting
juice. We don't have to add any salt or vinegar.
The sauce is already balanced."
Al's Place in San Francisco is known for
its pickled French fries. Chef-owner Aaron
London brines red-skinned potatoes in a salt
and cabbage solution. As the potatoes start to
ferment, they become infused with a tang that
remains after being twice fried and seasoned
with salt. They are intended to be dipped into
A variety of Cultured Love specialty krauts
©Cultured Love

another house specialty: smoked apple sauce.
At Emmer & Rye, Austin, Texas, Kevin Fink,
chef and owner, uses house-made fermented
ingredients for various reasons.
"They add two types of acid, lactic and acetic; they add probiotic craveability to dishes;
and they unlock flavors that were underneath
the surface of fresh items," he said. "We don't
buy spices. We only use the tops, roots, or
odds and ends to create a larder of items to
help the diversity of our food."
Favorites in his kitchen include fermented
tomato water, sugar fermented green mustang
grapes, green allium flower pod capers and
toasted mesquite vinegar.
"The ability to unlock flavor and deliciousness is every chef's quest," said Mr. Fink. "The
arsenal of fermenting helps do that."
"As chefs, we are always learning and
advancing,"Mr. McIlwraith said. "With the
speed of information sharing, sometimes it
seems that we all learn new things at similar
times. So, while they may be seen as hot
trends, my view is that we are all progressing
and learning together. Fermentation has been
around for a very long time, so it may be seen
as a current trend, but I view it as a return to a
food preparation method that we lost." 

by Donna Berry
editor@sosland.com

Adding a dose of healthfulness
The sixth annual "What's trending in nutrition" national survey, which polled more
than 2,000 registered dietitians across the
US, identified fermented foods such as kefir,
kimchi, kombucha, miso, sauerkraut, tempeh
and yogurt as the No. 1 superfood for 2018.
The rising popularity of fermented foods demonstrates consumers have expanded their
definition of wellness to include improved gut
health, which is a benefit of consuming fermented foods.
Superfood powers is why Jodie Krumpe,
founder, Cultured Love LLC, Zeeland, Mich.,
got into the specialty kraut business. She
found that fermented foods helped build back
her daughter's immunity after a long stint on
antibiotics.
"Fermented foods put powerful probiotics
back into her digestive system," she said.
Cultured Love krauts are marketed as probiotic foods. They are fermented with only
raw vegetables and spices. Salt is added for
flavor and to facilitate the breakdown of the
vegetable structure, allowing the water in the
JUNE 2018 | Culinology |

19



Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Culinology - June 2018

Culinology - June 2018
TABLE of contents
PRESIDENT’S letter - on the move
EMERGING trends - Rising restaurant trends
EMERGING trends - Beyond beef jerky
Flavor Trends - Balancing authenticity & innovation
INGREDIENT trends - Fermentation driving culinary experimentation
INGREDIENT trends - Branching out with olives
MEMBER profile - The real deal
INDUSTRY news - Innovation at every corner at RCA Conference
INDUSTRY news - Recognizing industry leaders
INDUSTRY news - RCA announces new officers
INDUSTRY news - Culinology Education Foundation scholarship recipients
INDUSTRY news - upcoming events
PETITS fours - ReGrained turning trash into treasure
PETITS fours - Companies placing bets on personalized nutrition
PETITS fours - New cheese snacks feature the crunch carb-avoiders crave
PETITS fours - Chobani stretching the yogurt category
NEWS bites
Ad Index
Culinology - June 2018 - Culinology - June 2018
Culinology - June 2018 - Culinology - June 2018
Culinology - June 2018 - 2
Culinology - June 2018 - TABLE of contents
Culinology - June 2018 - PRESIDENT’S letter - on the move
Culinology - June 2018 - 5
Culinology - June 2018 - EMERGING trends - Rising restaurant trends
Culinology - June 2018 - 7
Culinology - June 2018 - EMERGING trends - Beyond beef jerky
Culinology - June 2018 - 9
Culinology - June 2018 - 10
Culinology - June 2018 - Flavor Trends - Balancing authenticity & innovation
Culinology - June 2018 - 12
Culinology - June 2018 - 13
Culinology - June 2018 - 14
Culinology - June 2018 - 15
Culinology - June 2018 - 16
Culinology - June 2018 - 17
Culinology - June 2018 - INGREDIENT trends - Fermentation driving culinary experimentation
Culinology - June 2018 - 19
Culinology - June 2018 - 20
Culinology - June 2018 - 21
Culinology - June 2018 - 22
Culinology - June 2018 - 23
Culinology - June 2018 - 24
Culinology - June 2018 - 25
Culinology - June 2018 - INGREDIENT trends - Branching out with olives
Culinology - June 2018 - 27
Culinology - June 2018 - MEMBER profile - The real deal
Culinology - June 2018 - 29
Culinology - June 2018 - 30
Culinology - June 2018 - 31
Culinology - June 2018 - 32
Culinology - June 2018 - 33
Culinology - June 2018 - INDUSTRY news - Innovation at every corner at RCA Conference
Culinology - June 2018 - 35
Culinology - June 2018 - 36
Culinology - June 2018 - 37
Culinology - June 2018 - INDUSTRY news - Recognizing industry leaders
Culinology - June 2018 - 39
Culinology - June 2018 - INDUSTRY news - RCA announces new officers
Culinology - June 2018 - INDUSTRY news - Culinology Education Foundation scholarship recipients
Culinology - June 2018 - INDUSTRY news - upcoming events
Culinology - June 2018 - 43
Culinology - June 2018 - PETITS fours - ReGrained turning trash into treasure
Culinology - June 2018 - PETITS fours - Companies placing bets on personalized nutrition
Culinology - June 2018 - PETITS fours - Chobani stretching the yogurt category
Culinology - June 2018 - 47
Culinology - June 2018 - NEWS bites
Culinology - June 2018 - 49
Culinology - June 2018 - Ad Index
Culinology - June 2018 - 51
Culinology - June 2018 - 52
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