11. Pull the front edge of the lining to the front edge of the brim and glue a narrow seam allowance to the outside edge of the brim. The lining is one piece - it completely covers the inside of the bonnet. 12. Cut velvet by the pattern pieces. Use cotton velveteen, rayon velvet or millinery velvet. Apply a thin line of glue to all edges as you apply them to the bonnet form. 13. Carefully apply the velvet brim to the form. Overlap and trim the pieces at center back so they butt together rather than overlap. 14. Carefully cut away any excess velvet along the outer edge of the brim. The glue will seal the edges and prevent its raveling. 15. When the brim is covered, use the same technique to cover the crown. Trim any excess away at the top edge so that the velvet folds over the top of the crown about 1/8-inch. 16. Cut a piece of baby-batting or a cosmetic puff to fit the top of the crown to pad it out slightly. The puffy piece should be about 1/8-inch smaller than the top of the crown. The inside of the bonnet features a onepiece lining. This pattern, with modifications, can be used as a basic pattern for styles of the 1820s and 1830s. Shown are a bonnet and pelerine made of cotton velveteen, trimmed with cream silk ribbon and nylon gauze ribbon. It is not necessary to be constrained by having to use all-natural fibers when sewing for souvenir dolls. These dolls are modern and any available suitable fabrics can be used. 60 Spring 2019 17. Cover the puffy bit with a circle of velvet - cut a circle of velvet to fit. Apply glue to edges and press in place. 18. When the top of the crown is finished, and the glue is dry, trim the bonnet as desired with flowers, feathers and ribbon. A pelerine is a short cape. Pelerines were popular in the 1830s because they accommodated the fashionable wide sleeves. Make the pelerine of velvet to match the bonnet or silk to match the dress. To make the pelerine: 1. Cut the shape following the pattern. 2. Bind the edges with narrow bias strips if it is made of silk. 3. If you are using velvet, apply narrow decorative braid to all edges and to the solid line in the pattern piece. 4. Close front with button and loop. If the pelerine is made of velvet omit the lining and apply trim directly to the velvet.