Doll News Fall 2019 - 90

"Apolline" is an antique
wood bodied Huret,
wearing a lovely
handmade classic
Huret dress and fichu
of vintage embroidered
cotton organdy, trimmed
in manipulated selffabric fringe and vintage
braid. She wears a
fabulous hand-sewn
straw chapeau in the
classic Southern-style,
trimmed in matching
silk ribbon and faux
flowers. Costume and
hat designed by Diana
Nass. Doll: Diana Nass
Collection

on the world stage. The resulting trade between the United States and Europe
fueled the industrialization of both continents. Demand for cotton exploded and
by 1860 "King Cotton" was America's leading export, with most mills located
in the North due to their abundant water supply. After the Civil War the South
struggled to recover but as new machinery was introduced cotton mills appeared
throughout the South with much of the textile industry still being based there
today.

Cotton is, unquestionably, the King of Textiles. While cotton did compete with
wool and linen for dominance in the 18th and 19th century, in the South of the
1860's its advantages were well known. Its strength and durability (especially
Layers of fine cotton undergarments
when wet), its laundering and absorbency abilities, how it "breathes and stays
include a lace-trimmed chemise, drawers
cool," as well as its resistance to moths and other cloth-consuming bugs, made
and two petticoats, all topped with a
cotton ideal for the warm, humid southern climate. It is versatile and available in
wonderful, feminine corset. Designed
an abundance of weights, from fine batiste, voile and lawn which are perfect for
and sewn by Mary Ann Shandor.
underwear and lingerie items, to heavier corduroys and damasks for outer wear
and travel items. For ladies in the Old South, day wear had
to be as light and airy as possible, even with multiple petticoats,
drawers and a corset. Cotton was indeed a perfect choice.
This beautifully
reproduced
Huret is
costumed in
a wonderful
silk ensemble,
accented with
antique cotton
lace. Doll,
costume and
photograph
by Mary Ann
Shandor

For the women of the American South, the Civil War presented
challenges to fashion that had not occurred before. Blockades of
Southern ports prevented the importation of most goods and the
black market was very expensive. Southern women had to learn to
make do with what they had. The famous scene of Scarlett making
a fashionable dress from the curtains might not have been very far
from the truth. Regardless, during its heyday and prior to the war,
women of the Old South enjoyed both French and English fashions,
many traveling to the continent and bringing home styles, fabrics and
designs to be replicated by their dressmakers.

While evening attire was primarily constructed of fine silks, daywear
generally took advantage of lighter fabrics such as cotton. Day dresses and
90

FALL 2019



Doll News Fall 2019

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