Impressions - May/June 2022 - 39

as the fabric also is considered. Remember,
larger standard embroidery needles will
poke larger holes in fabric.
When possible, use a specialty metallic
thread needle because it won't puncture
a larger hole.
2. Slow down. Regardless of an embroidery
machine's make or model, its speed
must be slowed when working with metallic
threads. Higher speeds cause more
friction, and the goal when working with
metallic thread is to reduce friction as much
as possible.
Machines can be set to a speed between
500 and 600 stitches per minute. Depending
on the needle and fabric, it's possible to run
metallic threads at higher speeds - but
only occasionally. Other times, however,
will result in thread breaks and shredding
that will ultimately slow down production
in the long run.
3. Reduce tension. To reduce friction
and stress on the thread, loosen the tension
of the top thread of the working needle.
Make small adjustments to your tension
and test the design on a similar piece of
fabric until the machine is comfortable
with the combination of thread, backing
and fabric.
4. Choose the right design. Choose
simple and open designs without heavy
or dense fills. Heavy stitch-count designs
most likely will cause thread breaks. Also,
choose longer stitch lengths; the shorter
the stitches, the easier it is for the thread
to shred and break.
5. Store in the freezer before use. It's
true that threads are prone to breaking if
stored in a warm environment, so does that
likelihood decrease if they are stored in the
cold? For years, embroiderers have sworn
by storing metallic threads in a freezer
for 30 minutes to an hour before putting
using them. Because the thread twists as
it's coming off the spool, the cold helps it
feed more smoothly and not twist as much.
6. Use lubricant. Because the ultimate
goal with metallic thread is to reduce friction,
needle lubricant is another way to
get the thread to glide smoothly through
both the needle and thread path. While
Sewer's Aid lubricant is meant to be used
on the needle to reduce friction between
the eye and the thread, try placing a thin
layer on the thread spool itself.
You also can place a drop on a strand of
thread and run it through all areas of the
thread path. This will help reduce friction
in those areas, rather than the needle only.
7. Keep your machine polished.
Any burrs in the thread path will cause
immediate breakage - especially with
metallic threads. While minor burrs won't
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P.39
be too detrimental when working with
regular thread, the machine must be in
tip-top condition when working with
metallic threads. Any burrs in the thread
path eyelets or openings should be polished
with crocus cord.
8. Materials matter. Metallic threads
are less prone to breaking on softer fabrics
If you don't already have
a needle specifically for
specialty metallic thread,
use a larger embroidery
needle, such as an 80/12
sharp-point needle.
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