Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 19

Second, the stabilizer creates a smooth
and level barrier between the machine and
any seams, textured fabric or other parts of
the item being stitched, preventing needle
defl ection or design registration problems.
The Two Key Elements
Again, there are two key elements for pairing
your material with the correct stabilizer. Th ese
include fabric construction and design type.
1) Fabric Construction and Backing Type
What do I mean by fabric construction?
Hint: it's not the fi ber content the fabric is
made from. Th e fact that your material includes
cotton, polyester, rayon, wool, or any blend
of two or more fi bers, doesn't matter when
it comes to choosing backing. Instead, fabric
construction refers to the manner in which
the material is made. Most fabrics fall into
one of two types: Knits and Wovens.
Knit fabrics are made from a continuous
thread, or sets of threads, and are identifi ed
by the knit-and-purl, or looped, construction
pattern of the material, similar to how a
knitted or crocheted Afghan is made, but
much smaller. Th e chain-link construction
of knits is what makes them stretch in
every direction. But while this makes them
comfortable to wear, it also means they are
very unstable fabrics. T-shirts, polo shirts,
sweatshirts and performance wear are all
examples of common knits.
By contrast, woven fabrics are constructed
by the crisscrossing of horizontal and vertical
threads in an over-and-under basket weave
pattern. Generally, this makes for a more
stable fabric. However, because lightweight
wovens are thinner and less dense, they are
still considered unstable fabrics. Sometimes
a blend of fi bers, including elastic fi bers, will
be employed as part of the weave, allowing a
light woven material to fl ex even more. Dress
shirts, chiff on, percale, silk, rayon and some
linens are all examples of common lightweight
wovens.
As for heavyweight wovens, they are
exactly what they sound like: dense, tightly
woven cloth made for thickness, warmth and
durability. Although they may sometimes be
woven with a small percentage of elastic in
them (think stretch denim) they generally
have little flexibility and are very stable.
Broadcloth, wool tweed, denim, twill, duck
cloth, and canvas duffl e bags are all examples
of heavyweight wovens.
As you might expect, because knits are very
stretchy and lightweight wovens are fl exible,
they require a stabilizing foundational layer
that will support the design throughout the life
of the garment. Th erefore, when embroidering
on knits and light wovens, you must use a
sturdier cut-away backing to keep the design
Diff erent fabric types
require diff erent types of
stabilizers. Images courtesy
of Madeira USA
Knit Fabrics
fl at and well-supported as the material stretches
and fl exes around the stitches over the course
of repeated wearings.
Stable heavyweight woven fabrics, on the
other hand, have enough integrity to support
the design after it has been stitched without
requiring the additional stabilization of a cutaway
backing. Th erefore, when embroidering
on heavyweight wovens, a tear-away backing is
all you need to provide the temporary stability
necessary during the actual embroidering
process.
2) Design Type and Backing Weight
What do I mean by design type? As you
probably know, embroidery designs come in
all manner of sizes, densities, stitch types and
total stitch counts. With this in mind, design
type refers to not just one of those factors,
but all those factors put together. Don't just
think in terms of high or low total stitch
counts. Th e overall size of the design in
light of the total number of stitches matters,
too. Is the design tightly packed in one area?
Or is it a large, airy design without a lot of
fi ll stitches? Consider the design elements,
stitch type and the amount of fabric " real
estate " it's going to take up.
In the lion design on the following page,
for example, we have a 6-inch-by-7-inch
design with over 42,000 stitches, including
a large number of fi ll stitches. We would
call a design like that very " dense. " All those
stitches layered on top of each other in one
central area will require a heavier weight
backing, i.e., one that is thicker and is itself
denser with higher stabilization power.
At the other end of the density spectrum, we
have the owl design (to the right and below),
with a medium to lower stitch count-a
6-inch-by-12-inch design that includes a
lot of unstitched areas and decorative running
stitches with around 22,000 stitches across
a full jacket back. We would call a design
like this very " open. " While 22,000 stitches
is not a small design, it is spread out across
a wide area.
Once you learn how to approach your
backing decisions by thinking in terms of
fabric construction and design type, you
will be better able to analyze which backing
you'll need for every project you want to
embroider. Will you need a cut-away? A tearaway?
Something more specialized? What
follows is a quick and simple guide grouping
backings by type.
Cut Away Stabilizer
Lightweight,
Loosely Woven
Fabrics
Cut Away Stabilizer
Heavyweight,
Tightly Woven
Fabrics
Tear Away Stabilizer
A Special Supplement to impr essions
19

Impressions - Embroidery 2023

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Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 1
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Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 3
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 4
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 5
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 6
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 7
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 8
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 9
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Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 12
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Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 14
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 15
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 16
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 17
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 18
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 19
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 20
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 21
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 22
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 23
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 24
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 25
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 26
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 27
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - 28
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - Cover3
Impressions - Embroidery 2023 - Cover4
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20240809S
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20240506
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202404S
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202404
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202403
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20240102
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202312
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20231011
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20230809
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/2023
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20230506
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202304
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202303
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20230102
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202212
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20221011
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20220809
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20220506
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202204
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202203
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20220102
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202112
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20211011
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/DigitalDecorator_2021
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/20210809
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/teamactivewear_2021
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202106
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/202105
https://www.nxtbook.com/emerald/impressions/imp_0421_digital
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20210102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202012
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_fall2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nxtbook_bhtest/impwessons
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20201011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202009
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2020fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202008
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20200607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202005
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202003
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202002
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/202001
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201912
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2019
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2019fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201908
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20190607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201905
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201904
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201903
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamactive_2019spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201902
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201901
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201812
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/dd_2018
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201810
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2018fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201808
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201806
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201805
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201804
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201803
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2018spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201802
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201801
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201712
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201710
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201709
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2017fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20170607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201705
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201704
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201703
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2017spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201702
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201701
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201612
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201610
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201609
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201608
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20160607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201605
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201604
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201603
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2016spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201602
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201601
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201512
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201510
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201509
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201508
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20150607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2015summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201506
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201504
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201503
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2015spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201502
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201501
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201412
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201410
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201409
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201408
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2014fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/digitaldecorator_2014summer
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/20140607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/sportsfanretailer_2014spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201404
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201403
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/teamspirit_2014spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/impressions/201402
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201401
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sportsfanretailer_201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201312
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20131011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201309
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201308
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20130607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201304
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201303
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2013spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201302
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201301
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201212
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20121011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20120607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201204
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201203
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2012spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201202
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201201
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20111011
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20110809
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20110607
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201104
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201103
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2011spring
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201102
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201101
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sourcebook2010
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20101112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20100910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2010fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20100708
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201004
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2010winter
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_201003
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https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_200909
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_eco_2009fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_teamspirit_2009fall
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_200910
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_20091112
https://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/nielsen/impressions_sourcebook_200906
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