Pizza Today - November 2021 - 42

KITCHEN
ONION
BLINGS
New ideas for onions in your pizzeria
Story & Photo by John Gutekanst
O
PEACHES AND THE PIG
Recipe on page 46
nions. Yes, you know, those
giant mesh bags that sit in
your walk-in like a secondstring
quarterback? With
a little imagination, it
could be time to play this
transformative vegetable to
make pizzas and pastas more
exciting. For centuries, these
little sulfurous flavor bombs have been manipulated
to transfer flavor into sauces and paired with other
ingredients to turn foods from boring to exciting.
Their texture can range from liquid to crunchy and
best of all, onions are one of the best value-for-taste
products in your pizzeria.
The Big Sphinx Stink
Onions are a genus of flowering plants in the
allium family. The Egyptian peasants would buy
them from small market stalls, sliced and serve
with ale and a common flatbread named ta before
returning to work on the pyramids. It is thought
that Alexander the Great found the onion in Egypt
then brought it to Greece. Ironically, we see a trend
as the dark-age peasants in the time of the Goths,
Visigoths, Vandals and Franks ate onions with
porridge or bread, ale, cabbage and sometimes a
piece of salt pork.
The Allium Family
The Allium family and the taste of each type of
bulb and scape is distinguished by pungency and
concentration of the sulfur compounds. Here is a list
of alliums minus the garlic and leek.
White Onion: This stronger, spicier and more
pungent onion than the yellow onions. This onion
has a more pronounced onion flavor but falls apart
when cooked. The crisp texture is perfect for onion
rings.
Red Onion: Sometimes referred to as the salad
onion because of its sweetness and less punchy
spice when raw. You can cook with this onion and
the color fades to pink when heated. This onion
caramelizes easily after roasting or atop a pizza
which mellows the flavor.
Yellow Onion: Sometimes referred as the brown
onion. This is the workhorse of many kitchens
because it is cheaper and plentiful. The flavor is
strong but not overpowering and caramelize easily
and the flesh holds up well when cooking.
Sweet Onions: The mildest of all are usually
odd shaped and thus hard to cut in a kitchen setting
especially with new chefs. This may be called Vidalia
Georgia, Texas or Walla Walla and are great for raw
preparations. When heating, they lose that oniony
flavor fastest so keep that in mind.
Shallot: This tastes like a cross between a yellow
and red onion and is a favorite of chefs because the
42 / PIZZATODAY.COM / NOVEMBER 2021
42 / PIZZATODAY.COM / DECEMBER 2020

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Pizza Today - November 2021

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Pizza Today - November 2021 - CT1
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Pizza Today - November 2021 - Cover1
Pizza Today - November 2021 - Cover2
Pizza Today - November 2021 - 3
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