Pizza Today - June 2022 - 22

mix for an 85-100 percent hydration,
this bread benefits from a long, slow
mix and retardation in your refrigerator
to facilitate a strong gluten net. I
prefer Peter Reinhart's Pain a' l' Ancienne
way of mixing and the " Blob "
method for forming in my busy pizzeria,
(See Recipe.)
Baguette: The usual baguette mix
contains almost half all-purpose flour
and most bakers I've seen in France
were using a Pate Fermentee', or old
dough, at an amazing quantity compared
to the flours. The use of diastatic
malt, and a hydration of 60 percent,
sends the sugars on hyperdrive to the
crust. The crisp crust and the airy interior
are indicative of a great baguette.
Dough Nuts
Here are some things to think about
before starting a sandwich bread program.
What
is your dough like? Does it
have a higher hydration that will lead
to an airy bread or a lower hydration
that can lead to easier shaping and
a crisper crust. Do you use a natural
pre-ferment like poolish or biga or just
make it with a direct method?
Do you know about proofing? Bread
dough exhibiting a crisp crust and airy
crumb is best aged, then re-kneaded,
then proofed until the gluten net is
capturing carbon dioxide and the
bread starts to rise. This cannot
happen well in the winter cold or if it
is over-proofed in the summer heat. A
good proofer works wonders for consistency
- it all depends upon your
pizzeria set-up.
Do you only have conveyor ovens?
Conveyor ovens blast air upon breads
and work best with flatbreads and
na'an because of the instantaneous
oven spring. These breads work best on
a parchment covered tray and a diluted
egg wash makes them shiny instead
of dull. Toppings like sea salt are great
but some seeds will burn. Na'an can
22 / PIZZATODAY.COM / JUNE 2022
get caught in your small heating cavity
as it expands so be vigilant with na'an.
The best advantage of conveyors is
they are fast, fast, fast.
Are you baking with a deck oven?
Deck ovens make delicious large
springing loaves if they are equipped
with differing temperatures, steam and
lack hot spots. Steam makes for a great
shiny and crisp crust during the initial
higher-heat oven spring. Lowering the
heat ensures that the cell structure in
the middle of the loaf cooks to a temperature
of 200 F/93 C.
Lunar Equips
Equipment is important but you
don't have to travel to the moon to
find mise en place to bake some killer
breads. Here are some very important
items you will need.
* Trays. Large trays can hold a lot of
ciabatta, rolls, and other breads. (Note:
I've found that baking large breads on
trays impedes the oven spring from
the bottom because the heat transfers
to the loaf too slowly.) Smaller buns,
thinner baguette, and highly hydrated
doughs do well on trays.
* Parchment. Silicone parchment
works best for temperatures over 500
and long bakes as well as conveyor
bakes. They also catch seeds, oils egg
wash and other stuff that falls off during
baking, saving the trays. (Remember,
always keep dough off the side of
trays or it will stick.)
* Loader. (If going directly on the
bricks.) There are some small loaders
out there that can load 7-9 baguettes
or 5-6 large batards. They are small
profile and easy to store.
* Couche linen. This is linen used
for proofing breads especially like
baguette and ciabatta which are great
sandwich breads.
* Bannetons. This wicker and plastic
baskets are great to keep the form for
boule and batards.
* Tables with backsplash. Flour gets
everywhere. Need I say more?
* Bread bakers lame or bread knife.
Scoring breads gives the oven spring a
controlled expansion instead of bumps
blasting out the side of your loaf and
thus misshaping it.
* Water spritzer. If you want the
benefit of adding steam to a deck
oven, the battery powered lawn sprayers
work best and sending a blast to
the back of the oven will fill the chamber
with steam.
* Metro wire shelving. Bread must
have time to cool down, otherwise if
bagged, it will go limp.
* Gloves. Good gloves that can
handle 500-600 degrees and hot trays
is important.
The " Red October " Giant Pizza
Submarine
I make many of these loaves every
weekend from my direct-method, aged
proprietary pizza dough with a 60 percent
hydration. After baking and cooling,
I fill with Capicola, Mortadella,
Prosciutto di Parma, Genoa Salami,
and ham, with Provolone, arugula, tomato,
oregano, peppers, extra virgin olive
oil and sea salt. I cut each into 6-8
sandwiches that sell out in an hour.
Get the " Red October " Giant Pizza
Submarine at PizzaToday.com.
Spelt Ciabatta
This recipe for Ciabatta had its beginning
when I read Peter Reinhart's
the Bread Bakers Apprentice almost
15 years ago. I like the simplicity of
this recipe and the use of time over
technique or preferments. The magic
happens when the cold mix and holding
produces delayed fermentation
enabling fuller wheat flavor and the
sugars produce a better crust. My
customers love this bread filled with
a " Caprese " style of fresh mozzarella,
tomato, and fresh basil with plenty of
extra virgin olive oil and sea salt.
Get the Spelt Ciabatta recipe at
PizzaToday.com
JOHN GUTEKANST owns Avalanche
Pizza in Athens, Ohio.
http://www.PizzaToday.com http://www.PizzaToday.com http://www.PIZZATODAY.COM

Pizza Today - June 2022

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Pizza Today - June 2022

Commentary
Digital
Conversation
Mike's Monthly Tip
Man on the Street
Building Blocks
On Deck
Knead to Know
Destinations
A Look at Loyalty
Third-party Conversion
Digital Marketing in 2022
Seasonal Salads
Seasonal Salads
Low Prep Wow Apps
Summer-Inspired Pizzas
The Outdoor Experience
Automation Nation
Exterior Maintenance
Product Showcase
Pizza Today Yellow Pages
The Marketplace
Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Ctip1
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Ctip2
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Cover1
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Cover2
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Commentary
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 4
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 5
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 6
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 7
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Digital
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 9
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Conversation
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 11
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Mike's Monthly Tip
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 13
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Man on the Street
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 15
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Building Blocks
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 17
Pizza Today - June 2022 - On Deck
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 19
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Knead to Know
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 21
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 22
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 23
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Destinations
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 25
Pizza Today - June 2022 - A Look at Loyalty
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 27
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 28
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 29
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Third-party Conversion
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 31
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 32
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 33
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Digital Marketing in 2022
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 35
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Seasonal Salads
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 37
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Low Prep Wow Apps
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 39
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Summer-Inspired Pizzas
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 41
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 42
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 43
Pizza Today - June 2022 - The Outdoor Experience
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 45
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Automation Nation
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 47
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Exterior Maintenance
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 49
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Product Showcase
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 51
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Pizza Today Yellow Pages
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 53
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 54
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 55
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 56
Pizza Today - June 2022 - The Marketplace
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 58
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 59
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 60
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 61
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 62
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 63
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 64
Pizza Today - June 2022 - 65
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Expo Spotlight
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Cover3
Pizza Today - June 2022 - Cover4
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