Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 34

GO

Dining in the Style of
Bacall and Sinatra
By Susan N. Denaro, Esquire
Gallaghers Steakhouse
228 West 52nd Street
New York, NY 10019
Phone: (212) 586-5000
www.gallaghersnysteakhouse.com

I

loved watching old movies as a kid; the
kind starring Frank Sinatra and Lauren
Bacall, dressed in fabulous clothes
and dining in swanky nightclubs where
photos of famous people adorned the
walls. Evenings out in those movies always
started with elegant cocktails because no
righteous evening ever starts with just a
salad. Those restaurants featured waiters
clad in black jackets with black neckties
and white aprons serving huge plates of
steak and potatoes to help soak up the
endless cocktails. Just before the cigarette
case was empty and the bill arrived, Frank
or some equally cool cat would break out
into a song to woo the beauty he wanted
to sit beside him in the taxi waiting at the
curb.
Sadly, Hollywood doesn't make movies
like those anymore, but I have a favorite
haunt in the Gotham that still features
those crisp white tablecloths, perfectly
shaken drinks, and old school waiters.
Gallaghers Steakhouse, at 228 West 52nd
Street, just steps from Times Square as
well as the footlights of Broadway, looks as
special as those old Hollywood sets.
Gallaghers has been in business for
over 90 years. Its reputation has been
built around the beef it dry-ages on
the premises, which is then cooked to
perfection over hickory coals. As you
enter the establishment, long before you
notice the photos on the wall, you walk by
its glass-fronted, temperature controlled,
aging room where the shelves are lined
with 35 days worth of all cuts and sizes of
beef. While vegetarians may not enjoy the
sight, I find it much more enticing than a
lobster tank in a seafood house.
Even though the beef is the main
feature for most carnivores, Gallaghers
boasts lots of other entrees that should not
be missed. The first time I dined there, it
was a damp Friday night during Lent. I
started with an old-fashioned cocktail
34 | Berks Barrister

simply featuring one over-sized ice cube,
which gave a certain gravitas to the glass,
and helped chase away the chill of the
night
7 air outside.
While some may have felt it was
unusual torture to be so close to bovine
perfection during Lent, I dined on an
outstanding plate of Dover sole that was
masterfully filleted tableside. Its velvety
sauce had the right balance of lemon
and capers and met every one of my
expectations.
The sides we enjoyed included
perhaps the best creamed spinach I
have ever eaten. Its deep emerald green
heaviness was a proper balance to the
lightness of my fish. I found it even
more enticing than the excellent side of
asparagus, which was trimmed so the
pale green color of the tender inner stalk
was revealed. Both sides were masterful
offerings of traditional steak house
vegetables that are worth the price as they
easily served our table of four with plenty
to spare.
Although it is hard to beat a sparkling
evening at Gallaghers, if you want to
relive the romance portrayed in old
movies, daytime repasts there are not
quite as pricey and every bit as special.
We recently enjoyed brunch before a
Saturday matinee and had an equally
wonderful meal. My selection was a
prime rib hash that was more like a Swiss
rosti that was dotted with small bites
of tender beef. It was served with two
poached eggs and was way too large for
me to even eat half of it. I wished I had

opted for the lighter steak salad our friend
enjoyed, but my choice was worth having
just to get a small pitcher of the secret
Gallaghers steak sauce that helped elevate
my dish.
My spouse ordered off the three-course
prix fixe menu. For twenty-nine dollars,
not including drinks, tip and tax, he had
exactly what I could picture Frank ordering
back in the 1950s: a chilled wedge salad
with blue cheese, an eight-ounce aged beef
filet accompanied by mashed potatoes and
a generous serving of the creamed spinach.
Dessert was a slice of premise-made key
lime pie. It was a shocking amount of food
that did not disappoint; had he ordered the
same meal in the evening it might have
easily cost triple the price, if not more.
The surprise of his meal was the
sublime dessert, which featured a graham
cracker crust seasoned with a healthy dose
of cinnamon. The pervasive warmth of
the spice underscored the tartness of the
thick key lime filling. Despite no one in
our foursome being hungry by the time
it arrived, there was not a graham cracker
crumb left on the plate.
Because no righteous day, just like an
evening in New York, begins with a salad,
we started with a round of cocktails. Mine
was a Hemmingway daiquiri that made
me wonder why no one seems to drink
daiquiris anymore. Perfectly chilled, it
boasted a gorgeous slice of a ruby red
grapefruit rind and was served in a proper
daiquiri glass. Just like the old-fashioned,
there was a timelessness to the drink that
will draw me back again before too long.
Of course, whenever I'm there, I have
to glance around to see if Frank and
Lauren are holding court in a red booth in
the back, just like in the old movies.
Ms. Denaro is with the Wyomissing law
firm of Georgeadis||Setley.


http://www.gallaghersnysteakhouse.com

Berks Barrister Summer 2018

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Berks Barrister Summer 2018

Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 1
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 2
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 3
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 4
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 5
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 6
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 7
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 8
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 9
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 10
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 11
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 12
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 13
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 14
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 15
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 16
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 17
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 18
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 19
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 20
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 21
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 22
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 23
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 24
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 25
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 26
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 27
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 28
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 29
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 30
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 31
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 32
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 33
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 34
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 35
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 36
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 37
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 38
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 39
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 40
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 41
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 42
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 43
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 44
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 45
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 46
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 47
Berks Barrister Summer 2018 - 48
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksBarrister/BerksBarrister_Springr2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksBarrister/BerksBarrister_Fall-Winter2019
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksBarrister/Berksbarrister_Summer2019
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksBarrister/BerksBarrister_Springr2019
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksBarrister/Berksbarrister_Winter2019
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksBarrister/Berksbarrister_Summer2018
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksBarrister/berksbarrister_winter2017
https://www.nxtbookmedia.com