Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 21

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Thanks to the author's research, the reader learns a lot about
the Molly Maguires, the 1876 trial in which the prosecutor was
the coal company president, the Pennsylvania Dutch jurors who
could not understand English and the hanging of ten alleged
Mollys on a day that would be called "The Day of the Rope."
But what about the food and beverage at the Wooden Keg,
you ask? Well, the menu selections and their preparation are
compared favorably to the dishes on "Diners, Drive-Ins and
Dives." No frozen food dipped into a deep fryer here. Tapped
beers included the author's favorite beer-Lord Chesterfield Ale,
brewed just three miles down Route 61.
Now, go about 30 miles south of Reading and you come to
Lancaster, home of the Horse Inn on East Fulton Street. It was
built sometime in the 1800s as a carriage house for horses stabled
on the first floor with their hay stored on the second floor. When
Prohibition took effect in 1920, out went the hay and the vast
hayloft became a speakeasy. That explains the alley entrance with
a sliding door.
Ms. McCormick's research reveals that, during Prohibition,
Lancaster was "wide open," a term meaning in "the upright
horse-and-buggy age, it was slang for any town that was open to
vice-usually the trinity of booze, prostitution, and gambling."
After all, one could find "44 brothels within six blocks of Penn
Square, the city center..." and... "Minors were buying beer in
dance halls citywide."
She learned, "Some Lancaster breweries continued brewing,
confident that police would turn a blind eye." Pipes that had
brought water into the brewery began to pump out beer to trucks
somewhere offsite or directly to a speakeasy, providing a "nice and
fresh" product.
In her conversational style of writing, Ms. McCormick shares
this tale after one brewery began running a fire hose through the
Lancaster sewer. "One day, a sewer worker shouted to his boss
on the street above, 'There's a hose down here.' 'No, there is no
hose down there,' said the boss, 'and don't tell anyone you saw it.'
Think about that for a minute. You didn't see the hose that's not
down there. Makes me laugh every time."
Describing the Horse Inn's food scene, the reader learns that
the cheeseburger is so good a "real-vegan couple travels from
New York once a month just to eat" it. Thus, the author had to
partake: "And it was so very, very good. Juicy and smoky, a blend
of short rib, brisket, chuck and 10-percent dry-aged beef, on a
fresh roll from Alfred & Sam's Bakery of Lancaster." Sounds like
it is definitely worth a trip from Reading!
As for the beverage scene, the Inn boasts over 120 original
cocktail recipes and has partnered "with Ephrata-based St.
Boniface Brewing Co. to create the nitro Ace in the Hole." She
describes the drink as "a nicely balanced nitro with just enough
fizz to cut through the heft of the burger."
While I enjoy spending culinary time in an historic tavern
setting, I equally enjoy time in a white-tablecloth atmosphere.

It just so happens the General Warren Historic Hospitality
of Malvern combines the two concepts. I have visited the
establishment, built in 1745, on multiple occasions and find it
a hidden gem. In its early years, the tavern was a Tory-leaning
sanctuary for British officers, and its site was very involved in
the 1777 Battle of Paoli, which became the Paoli Massacre of
Colonial troops. Once again, the author's research is detailed and
enlightening.
She captures the post-battle in her description of the Warren's
bar where "time tumbles back centuries." Sitting at the bar "with
a wood fire at my back, it wasn't hard to imagine a British officer
pulling off his boots to warm his feet after a long ride. Glasses
of beer and hard cider clink in celebration of a battlefield victory.
Most assuredly, they might be saying, the Crown will prevail. We
just slaughtered 52 of those pesky rebels, bayoneted in an open
field and burned in their huts. Their treasonous compatriots are
scattered. These Colonists have no spine."
Entering the dining room, the white tablecloths are "especially
striking when contrasted with rustic surroundings." The beef
Wellington is described as "legendary." And I agree. Normally,
I do not order filet mignon when dining out; give me a Florens
filet, and I like to think my grilled steak at home equals any
steakhouse product. Nevertheless, I also want to believe I possess
an open mind, and, when the Warren's beef Wellington was
recommended, I tried it and was hooked. Legendary indeed!
Follow-up visits have not changed my opinion. Of course, the
entree always follows a perfectly chilled, pre-dinner Bombay gin
martini. Some things never change.
The eight other "rebellious hotspots" are City Tavern in
Philadelphia; Blue Bell Inn; McCoole's at the Historic Red Lion
Inn in Quakertown; Tavern at the Sun Inn in Bethlehem; Jean
Bonnet Tavern in Bedford; Two Rivers Brewing Company in
Easton; and Gettysburg's Dobbin House Inn and Farnsworth
House Inn.
Reading about these twelve taverns, while sheltered-at-home
under the Governor's order, was akin to torture at times. Finish
a chapter, and I wanted to visit the highlighted pub immediately,
soak up its history, check out the unique aspects she cited and,
of course, taste the food. But, upon further reflection, thinking
positively, the book was a perfect quarantine antidote. Thanks to
the author's vivid descriptions, I made twelve tasty escapes from
my house, at least in my mind.
Her interesting tome has resulted in me adding destinations
to my bucket list.
Meanwhile, set me up with my favorite beverage, straight-up
with an olive, no vermouth and shaken, not stirred. While the
drink will be enjoyed at home, the mind's eye will be looking out
over the Delaware River.

Mr. Smith is Executive Director Emeritus of the Berks County Bar
Association.

Fall 2020 | 21


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Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020

Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 1
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 2
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 3
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 4
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 5
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 6
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 7
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 8
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 9
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 10
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 11
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 12
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 13
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 14
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Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 18
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Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 20
Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 21
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Berks County Bar Association The Berks Barrister Fall 2020 - 32
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https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksCountyBar/BerksBarrister_Summer2021
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksCountyBar/BerksBarrister_Spring2021
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksCountyBar/BerksBarrister_Winter2020-21
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https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksCountyBar/BerksBarrister_Summerr2020
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksCountyBar/BerksBarrister_Fall2018
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https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksCountyBar/BerksBarristerFall2017
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksCountyBar/BerksBarrister-Summer2017
https://www.nxtbook.com/hoffmann/BerksCountyBar/BerksBarristerSpring2017
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