CPM Spring 2019 - 29

daup h i n c m s .o rg


s 2018 came to a close, Harrisburg welcomed Koda, a
new dining experience adjoined by the Newfangled Brew
Works.  Off the beaten path near Union Deposit Road
about a mile east of Central Dauphin East High School,
it's the centerpiece of Union Station, a new housing development
that will feature shops and living space similar to Walden in Mechanicsburg.  Its Contemporary American cuisine is masterfully
served by Executive Chef and partner Christian DeLutis.  Prior
to his most recent past birthing the culinary program at Troegs
Brewing Company, he honed his skills in Baltimore, where he was
named Chef of the Year in 2010. 
Featuring a tall ceiling, the restaurant's white walls are accentuated
by unfinished wood, which went perfectly with the warm aroma
of the open kitchen›s wood fire, over which much of the meat is
prepared on hanging adjustable cables.  As a lover of barbecue, I'd
pick wood cooking over gas or electric 7 days a week.
Dining starts with unique and complex house cocktails, beers
from the brewery next door and from others in Pennsylvania, and
a half dozen wine selections exclusively from Waltz Estate Vineyard
in Manheim.  Soups include a butternut squash, adorned with
pomegranate and pumpkin seed, and the Caesar and Waldorf Salad
choices looked generous. Among appetizers, our table passed around
a flatbread with sweet onion, fig and spinach, and a raw+pickled
vegetable plate centered by a black bean spread and warm olives
with mini-toast. 

Each of our party of eight praised our dinner selections. A lamb
chop tower was bottomed by creamy whipped yam and puffy, lightly
breaded onion rings (the latter was also offered as a side dish, with a
tangy dipping sauce).  Pork tenderloin was served with house-made
slab bacon, red cabbage and spaetzle.  Salmon had a light sweet glaze,
and came with beets and crunchy baked Brussel sprouts topped
with sea salt.  A plate of soft gnocchi featured generous chunks of
lobster and scallops in a fennel cream. 
Desserts from the kitchen include a favorite that I haven't seen
on a menu in ages...Baked Alaska, topped with a marshmallow-y
meringue gently blowtorched.  Peanut Butter and Jelly Cake had
a thin layer of milk chocolate to punctuate the sweet currant jam.
Sunday Brunch promises to be incredible, featuring a weekly pig
roast over the aforementioned wood fire. Clam chowder, oysters
on the half shell, Eggs Benedict, Chicken Divan Egg Bake, and
the salmon cake with a poached egg on a bagel stand out on its
menu, to be enjoyed with live guitar/vocals.
A second parking lot is currently under construction in front of
the restaurant and brewery.  With food like this, it will certainly
be needed as diners discover Koda.


8001 Union Station Blvd. | Harrisburg
717-982-6473 | kodahbg.com

Central PA Medicine Spring 2019 29

http://www.dauphincms.org http://www.kodahbg.com

CPM Spring 2019

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